Re: 1930Vacuum Tank Blues

Posted by jmmfranklin On 2010/5/28 0:51:41

Vacuum tanks actually work well and the Packard style is the best as it has a prime fitting on the top (should you loose prime).

Use a cork gasket - paper will let you down every time; and holes for screws should be snug against the screw shaft - ie do not use a paper hole punch just because it makes a hole that is close - you really need an exact size hole. Also pipe fittings need to be tight (but they are fragile so do not overtighten) and top of tank bolts need to be snug (overtighten and you will warp lid - it is just die cast and very fragile. Equally, you also need to shut the gas off at the bowl when the car is parked for any more than a few hours.

Things tend to go south as far as maintaining prime after a few months, but a help is to Use Stabill in your gas as a preservative.

I wrap my gasoline lines in old fashion braided electrical wire wrap and wrap the exhaust pipes from and from manifold to front floor and to kick-up of rear axel to tail. remember, there was a time when the goal was to preheat the gasoline (thus why your exhaust almost wraps your gasoline tank).

Electric pumps and vacuum tanks are not a hand in hand thing and a good way to set your car on fire. Use one or the other. If you do go electric install a pressure regulator. I am not sure that 1/2 lb of pressure will supply the fuel bowl with the needed volumn of gas to drive at speed though. A 1930 carb is pretty primative as far as a needle and seat. I run the more advanced carbs (ex. 35 V-12 at 2.5 lbs). I run all the vacumn tank cars on original systems - and live w/such as just a nature of the beast pain the the ...