Re: 1940 Manual shift

Posted by Joe Santana On 2011/9/19 14:05:13
I posted the results of my repair at The Duchess Project. Everything works and cleaning the solenoid contacts fixed the overdrive. Very happy camper.
I re-read this entire thread and I think I can make more improvements.

1. NEW 2-3 SHIFT ROD NEEDED. For some reason the horizontal 2nd-3rd gear shift rod is welded from 2 rods. (When I was a high school kid driving the Duchess, I'd take it to a shop for repairs. At one point, rather than rebuild the engine, I had it replaced with another 40 engine. When they put the new engine in, it didn't quite fit....because it was a 120 engine. Perhaps the 120 shift rod is longer than the 160s. Maybe the original rod was replaced with a longer one. Then when I replaced the 120 with a 160 engine in the 70s, shift rod was cut, modified and welded. I'll take a photo tonight. I would like to replace this rod with NOS or do as cortcomp suggests and make a new rod with female Heim joints.

2. I WOULD LIKE TO REPLACE THE 2-3 SHIFTER FORK proper, the one attached to the transmission cover. It's the ends that rub against the detent/interlock block and balls that wear. I wonder if there are any specs on what the gap distance should be between the detent ends of the forks and the interlock block itself. The articles specifically say the shift levers on the column rarely wear enough to warrant replacement (the new cast iron ones, that is), BUT the shifter fork ends that the detent balls snap into do wear. So, are NOS 2nd-3rd shifter forks available for '40 160?

3. THE DETENT/INTERLOCK SPRING. The ones (a lightweight wire spring with a diameter that fit the cylinder and a shorter smaller diameter spring inside it but of heavier gauge wire) that I found inside the cover that were bunged up are obviously not right. The parts book lists only one spring #330235. Looking at BDeB's photos above, I could see that the gauge is heavier, but zooming in I couldn't tell if it's 1 long spring or 2 short ones. The cylinder in the interlock block for the spacer is clear all the way through. The cylinder for the spring is not. There's a divider that juts about 1/4 of the diameter into the cylinder, that blocks the spring from fitting end to end. I tried to screw it in, but it wouldn't go, so I cut the string in 2 and put each half in an end. That's what's in there now and works, but if that's wrong, I want to replace it. I wonder if the correct spring is available.

I will add a request in the Wanted forum.

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