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56P400 wrote:
but about gas, we cleaned carb, installed a new pump kit, added an electric pump and cleaned and coated the gas tank, so I think the problem is not really gas.
1) That's not a proper carb rebuild. It would be OK if you already knew the carb was fine, but you don't. I had mine done for just under $200 and it's amazing. A professional carb rebuild will do wonders, even on an already running "well" car.
2) Do you know *for sure* that the fuel pressure is correct on that pump?
If it's too high, it'll force the carb to take fuel it can't handle and will flood it while starting and make it run rich most of the time. The warmer the car is, the better it can burn that rich fuel off and maybe smooth out.
EDIT: Actually it would load up while warm and while it'd run better warm at first, it would start running terribly after totally warm, especially in stop and go traffic.
END EDIT
Is the pressure too low? Then the car is starving for gas at the point it needs it most, when it's cold and it needs the richness to run well (hence why the choke was invented)
Mechanical pumps work well for most people in most situations. I still like it more than electric pumps by far. If you have one and can run it, hook it up and test with it.
To test your electrical pump, start your car for about 10 seconds, then shut it off. That should fill the carb up. Then disconnect your electric pump and wait about an hour or so. Start the car. Does it run fine and smooth (until the carb runs out of fuel)? If so, pressure is likely too high.
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Besides, why would gas give those symptoms? Starts missing a lot, and you can barely maintain it running, and gradually starts to improve, but it takes at least about 4 minutes to start to work smoothly.
Gas gives those symptoms because it's the fuel that runs the motor, depending on what's wrong with fuel delivery, it can cause anything from sputtering to knocking and pinging to running hot or not running to running lean and burning a hole in a piston. Gas is important so it can affect every system in the car.
Also, you're totally discounting that most carbs have a separate idle circuit, a choke circuit and controls, and float levels that ALL affect how a car runs in the first few minutes vs after it's warm. On a motorcycle, if you read me those symptoms, i'd say your idle circuit is plugged or mis adjusted and your choke isn't working or air is getting passed it. It sounds like a CLASSIC carb problem.
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Really puzzles me. We will be checking on everything again today, including spark plugs, but I really think there is something else behind the problem. I will post my findings.
It's not ignition related. Spark plugs don't spark more warm vs cold. If the car fires while you're rolling it over and when you stop operating the starter, does not instantly get better, then it's not ignition. When the starting is running and draining voltage from the system, that's the weakest your ignition system will be, and yours is ok at that point.
Like you said, there is something else behind the problem though. The carb. (or related...manifold, vacuum lines, etc.) Just like the above gentlemen said.
If i thought i had a lifter/cam/motor problem and some wise gentlemen told me it's likely a carb and i knew that, worst case, a professional would charge me $200 or i could do my best to fix it for less, i'd have $200 out SO FAST the paper would catch fire on its way from my hand to his. The carb being an issue is good news, not bad.
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