"...Maybe the vacuum advantage isn't working. Three things. The vacuum from the carburetor, which could be switch to the manifold. The diaphragm (if the advance level doesn't on acceleration, and the spring, if it doesn't retract when acceleration is released. The latter require 2 guys or more and longer arms. Like Sonny Liston could do it, but that's about all. The vacuum I could test. There's a movie of it here:
http://www.mktx.com/joe/CarbVacuumAdvTest-desktop.m4v Popped right up to between 15 and 20 in. of Hg..."
Joe, not sure what you are getting at with the above. Vacuum should be steady at idle and closer to 20 in. than 15 in. The distributor vacuum advance diaphragm will react or move depending on the amount of vacuum applied to it. If connected to the manifold, there will always be some vacuum applied to the advance diaphragm all the time the engine is running. If connected to the carburetor, then vacuum will not be present at idle, only as the throttle plates are opened.
"Since those things seemed to be working. I removed the carburetor again. Opened it up again. I sprayed it with acetone. The new leather piston looked good. Then I checked the floats. I removed them and held them down in a pot of water. No bubbles. The measuring device that came with the kit is pretty crude, but they looked like they were in the ballpark..."
The paper gauge supplied with the carburetor rebuild kit looks to be bent or wavey and therefore not giving an accurate reading. If straightened, the floats would need to be adjusted and would result in a lower fuel level. A small difference in float setting can make a big difference. A small mechanic's square would be a better tool to measure the floats.
Keep at it you will prevail.
(o{}o)
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