Re: Larry's 1951 Club Sedan Project
Posted by Larry51 On 2013/8/29 6:59:17
OK, using BigKev's suggestion, looks like I'll have to limit my photos in each post. I was wondering why I couldn't post pics.
Carrying on from yesterday's blog . . . .Here is the new timing chain fitted. It was VERY tight and I spent an hour or two coaxing it onto the gears. If it was even 1mm shorter I doubt it would have fitted!
Couldn't buy a key that fitted the crank keyway properly in terms of shape, so a similar shaped key was filed down until it fitted. That took quite a while because it was a much thicker key.
Fortunately I have a few cylinder heads including two dated
"1951". The best in terms of straight/ no warping or marking was one of these '51 heads and it cleaned up to look like new.
Photos are a bit out of order now due to posting problems, but what the heck!
One of the rebuild tasks that had me scratching my head a lot was fitting the new rear main oil seal. It was in the gasket set from Kanter, and it just looked too darn big to fit properly. In the first pic you can see how much of the rope seal protrudes above the seating slot, despite a lot of pressing in as per the Manual. For a while I thought it was the wrong sized seal, but after a lot of pressure it finally seated relatively flat into the slot. I tightened / released the rear main cap about a dozen times to get it in, turning the crank slowly each time and lubricating the seal with pre-fit Moly Disulphide spray. More pressing with a round of wood and eventually it was in, but very tight. Had to really lean on an extension bar to turn the crank. Now I am pleased to say that it is just right for tightness and the crank turns more easily.
Seal protruding a lot despite much pressing to get it in
Another view of the troublesome seal
Once again, photo out of sequence. The crank has virtually no wear, is original diameter and unmarked so in it went. Checking the mains and big end bearings was done with Plastigages and finding that the engine was hardly worn was quite a relief.
Here's a shot of all valves held aloft with wood blocks, to allow the cam to be introduced to the engine. This was after the valves had been lapped in, and valve springs and lifters fitted.
My exhaust guides are just within wear limits and inlet guides well within wear limits. Even though I had bought a new set of guides (both) I made a conscious decision to not replace the exhaust guides yet, having read a few posts about jammed valves. My attitude is that it's better to have a bit of extra play in the guides than take any risk of jamming a valve. Maybe I'll use a bit extra oil but will have some extra peace of mind.
Carrying on from yesterday's blog . . . .Here is the new timing chain fitted. It was VERY tight and I spent an hour or two coaxing it onto the gears. If it was even 1mm shorter I doubt it would have fitted!
Couldn't buy a key that fitted the crank keyway properly in terms of shape, so a similar shaped key was filed down until it fitted. That took quite a while because it was a much thicker key.
Fortunately I have a few cylinder heads including two dated
"1951". The best in terms of straight/ no warping or marking was one of these '51 heads and it cleaned up to look like new.
Photos are a bit out of order now due to posting problems, but what the heck!
One of the rebuild tasks that had me scratching my head a lot was fitting the new rear main oil seal. It was in the gasket set from Kanter, and it just looked too darn big to fit properly. In the first pic you can see how much of the rope seal protrudes above the seating slot, despite a lot of pressing in as per the Manual. For a while I thought it was the wrong sized seal, but after a lot of pressure it finally seated relatively flat into the slot. I tightened / released the rear main cap about a dozen times to get it in, turning the crank slowly each time and lubricating the seal with pre-fit Moly Disulphide spray. More pressing with a round of wood and eventually it was in, but very tight. Had to really lean on an extension bar to turn the crank. Now I am pleased to say that it is just right for tightness and the crank turns more easily.
Seal protruding a lot despite much pressing to get it in
Another view of the troublesome seal
Once again, photo out of sequence. The crank has virtually no wear, is original diameter and unmarked so in it went. Checking the mains and big end bearings was done with Plastigages and finding that the engine was hardly worn was quite a relief.
Here's a shot of all valves held aloft with wood blocks, to allow the cam to be introduced to the engine. This was after the valves had been lapped in, and valve springs and lifters fitted.
My exhaust guides are just within wear limits and inlet guides well within wear limits. Even though I had bought a new set of guides (both) I made a conscious decision to not replace the exhaust guides yet, having read a few posts about jammed valves. My attitude is that it's better to have a bit of extra play in the guides than take any risk of jamming a valve. Maybe I'll use a bit extra oil but will have some extra peace of mind.
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