Re: 56 Caribbean Convertible Rejuvenation
Posted by HH56 On 2021/10/18 10:38:07
Brake switch could be the issue with the lights and the suspension but it could be as simple as a fuse. In 56, on the left innner fender to cowl space located near the solenoids will be two inline fuses. The larger 30 amp is for the suspension motor and overall TL system but the smaller 7 1/2 amp is fed from the larger fuse and goes to the brake switch for the brake lights and suspension control switch.
If the fuses are OK and it still has the original 3 terminal or even one of the aftermarket 3 terminal replacement switches those are a known failure item. Options in that case are to find another 3 terminal switch, convert to a mechanical switch, or build or buy the 2 terminal switch and relay conversion package. The conversion to mechanical or the 2 terminal switch package will give the longest service and if the brake switch does fail again, it is easily found at almost any parts store.
On the turn signals, grounds could also be an issue. The original thermal flashers are very sensitive to changes in resistance in the circuit either from burned out bulbs or poor grounds. You might go to each light housing and remove the nuts or screws to sheetmetal fastenings and clean any rust or corrosion that might have formed between the fastening and sheetmetal. Corrosion can also build up between the crimps where socket shells and the potmetal housings are joined and also destroy a good ground.
Attach file:
56 with manual TL switch.jpg (90.97 KB)
If the fuses are OK and it still has the original 3 terminal or even one of the aftermarket 3 terminal replacement switches those are a known failure item. Options in that case are to find another 3 terminal switch, convert to a mechanical switch, or build or buy the 2 terminal switch and relay conversion package. The conversion to mechanical or the 2 terminal switch package will give the longest service and if the brake switch does fail again, it is easily found at almost any parts store.
On the turn signals, grounds could also be an issue. The original thermal flashers are very sensitive to changes in resistance in the circuit either from burned out bulbs or poor grounds. You might go to each light housing and remove the nuts or screws to sheetmetal fastenings and clean any rust or corrosion that might have formed between the fastening and sheetmetal. Corrosion can also build up between the crimps where socket shells and the potmetal housings are joined and also destroy a good ground.
Attach file:
56 with manual TL switch.jpg (90.97 KB)
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