Re: PackardDon's 1956 Clipper Custom Sedan
Posted by HH56 On 2024/3/29 21:04:23
If the spline on the lever is sheared there is likely very little if any load from the transverse bars. If you can grab them and twist them to feel the play at the ball socket then there is none. If you cannot twist I would remove the motor first and see if it is disconnected from the worm. If it is you can follow the bulletin to either fix the snap ring and bearing to get the worm back in place or else try to manually move the compensator by using a large screwdriver or rig up some kind of drill attachment to turn the worm. With the dual planetary gear reduction in the compensator, turn ratio is something like 3000 to one so it takes a lot of turning on the worm to see much movement at the lever.
Alternately, there is a procedure in step 5 of the bulletin where you LOOSEN but do not remove the 7 screws holding the compensator halves together. The center ring gear between the halves is only held by friction so with the upper and lower halves loosened enough the tension on the bars on the lever will just rotate the ring until tension is gone. When loosening the screws keep your hands free of the lever and bars because if there is load and it breaks free things will move in a hurry.
After tension is gone the ends of the bars have screw on caps that are most likely staked in place. The caps and a spring provide tension to the sockets which hold the bars to the balls on the lever. You will need a ratchet and drag link socket sized to fit the screw slot in order to loosen and remove caps. Easiest to take off is at the short bar or frame end and leave the bars on the compensator while it is removed. Then you can easily get to the screws at the compensaor end after removal but one issue you may have is access.
Sometimes due to various reasons the levers on the end of the short bars will want to bury themselves in the frame and if that happens you may not be able to get the drag link on the screw slot. I usually lay a piece of scrap wood in the frame large enough that the center of the short bar lever will hit it and stop so it does not go all the way into the frame.
Attach file:
drag link socket.jpg (66.47 KB)
Alternately, there is a procedure in step 5 of the bulletin where you LOOSEN but do not remove the 7 screws holding the compensator halves together. The center ring gear between the halves is only held by friction so with the upper and lower halves loosened enough the tension on the bars on the lever will just rotate the ring until tension is gone. When loosening the screws keep your hands free of the lever and bars because if there is load and it breaks free things will move in a hurry.
After tension is gone the ends of the bars have screw on caps that are most likely staked in place. The caps and a spring provide tension to the sockets which hold the bars to the balls on the lever. You will need a ratchet and drag link socket sized to fit the screw slot in order to loosen and remove caps. Easiest to take off is at the short bar or frame end and leave the bars on the compensator while it is removed. Then you can easily get to the screws at the compensaor end after removal but one issue you may have is access.
Sometimes due to various reasons the levers on the end of the short bars will want to bury themselves in the frame and if that happens you may not be able to get the drag link on the screw slot. I usually lay a piece of scrap wood in the frame large enough that the center of the short bar lever will hit it and stop so it does not go all the way into the frame.
Attach file:
drag link socket.jpg (66.47 KB)This Post was from: https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=269462