Re: 1924 Sport 136
Posted by Karl On 2024/5/8 12:10:43
I continued working on the rims... after removing all the layers of paint, I was able to answer a question I had about the color. Apparently the rims were painted two-tone in 1924. I think that this was the case not only with the Sport model, but also with all other types in this series. I would like answers to this if anyone knows more details. The original “Vermillion Red” was only painted on the front visible surface. And possibly the edge of the rim over which the snap ring has to be levered was not painted in “Vermillion Red”, but rather in black like the rest of the rim, as you can see on Steve Babinski’s 19024 Sport. If you look closely at the photos of this sport and enlarge them, you can see that this edge shows clear signs of assembly. That's why I'll also paint the rear rims in black satin, as well as the remaining parts that belong to the frame. This creates a harmonious and appropriate image when you look at the visible areas of the chassis, suspension and frame.
I made a few suitable aluminum adapters for the rims, which were necessary to clamp the rims onto the balancing machine. In order to give the pipes a smooth surface to rest on the rims, I applied the deep rust scars in this area with a very strong and hard spatula. It is a 2-component epoxy filler with a very high tin powder content. After curing... I wait 24 hours at 20-24°C... I apply black powder “Dry Guide Coat” to locate missing spots or final holes. “Image….447”. In the next step, a not very thick layer of spray putty is applied to the entire rim area using the paint gun. However, I am leaving out the area where the snap rings need to be placed. I cover this area with an 8mm foam rubber cord and also tape it off with painter's tape. You can also use a suitable old electrical cable. The area where the snap ring is located will later only be painted with a black putty knife before the final top coat is applied. This ensures that the snap rings fit optimally on the deep and sharp edges in the joint. Pictures of that later.
Maybe someone will recognize the car in the background. It's my everyday car over here.
Karl
Attach file:
k-P1040430.JPG (146.51 KB)
k-P1040443.JPG (120.96 KB)
k-P1040439.JPG (184.42 KB)
k-P1040440.JPG (124.48 KB)
k-P1040446.JPG (149.67 KB)
k-P1040447.JPG (120.64 KB)
I made a few suitable aluminum adapters for the rims, which were necessary to clamp the rims onto the balancing machine. In order to give the pipes a smooth surface to rest on the rims, I applied the deep rust scars in this area with a very strong and hard spatula. It is a 2-component epoxy filler with a very high tin powder content. After curing... I wait 24 hours at 20-24°C... I apply black powder “Dry Guide Coat” to locate missing spots or final holes. “Image….447”. In the next step, a not very thick layer of spray putty is applied to the entire rim area using the paint gun. However, I am leaving out the area where the snap rings need to be placed. I cover this area with an 8mm foam rubber cord and also tape it off with painter's tape. You can also use a suitable old electrical cable. The area where the snap ring is located will later only be painted with a black putty knife before the final top coat is applied. This ensures that the snap rings fit optimally on the deep and sharp edges in the joint. Pictures of that later.
Maybe someone will recognize the car in the background. It's my everyday car over here.
Karl
Attach file:
k-P1040430.JPG (146.51 KB)
k-P1040443.JPG (120.96 KB)
k-P1040439.JPG (184.42 KB)
k-P1040440.JPG (124.48 KB)
k-P1040446.JPG (149.67 KB)
k-P1040447.JPG (120.64 KB)
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