Re: BigKev's 1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Sedan

Posted by 55PackardGuy On 2009/5/5 0:36:16

BigKev,

What Randy said before, with some more ideas...

Those spring hose clamp are used mostly to speed production IMO. (No screws to mess with as it goes down the line). With the right tool, they go on easily, but there's no way to tighten them beyond their own spring tension, which doubtless varies from one to another. You have to pull the hose to put on a new one, too.

I'm sure they're "correct" on almost any from-the-factory water hose set-up, but what a PITA.

Regarding sealant in hose connections, it's sometimes not considered kosher, but Permatex #2 often seals small leaks due to irregularities in the ID surface of hose or OD of nipple/pipe.

Take these steps:

Clean the pipe nipple and flange thoroughly (old crud on it may be source of leak in first place).

Spread an even, thin coat of Permatext #2 on the OD of the pipe and flange, NOT the ID of the hose, which results in the pipe squeezing a bead of Permatex into the hose that will loosen up and float around in the cooling system.

Allow a couple of minutes for the Permatex to set up.

Push the hose and clamp on. As Randy notes, always make sure the leading edge of the clamp is behind the flange, with no overlap.

Tighten the clamp with a screwdriver or small socket.

Run and check for leaks. Here's the beauty part: if it leaks, you have the option to just tighten the clamp instead of starting all over.

Also, the Permatex #2 (NEVER use #1) will stay flexible and allow easier removal of the hose. (After removal, the excess sealant will need to be cleaned off the pipe nipple. Alcohol works well.) Cheers!

NOTE:
In very high pressure applications, Permatex is not a good idea. Look at most hydraulic lines--you'll see "aircraft" hoseclamps tightened to the max, usually with a wrench rather than a screwdriver.