Re: Larry's 1951 Club Sedan Project

Posted by Larry51 On 2010/2/20 7:13:38
Replacing the Rear Axle Seals

Replacing the rear axle inner and outer oil seals was fairly routine and as outlined in the '51-54 Service Manual, with a few exceptions.

Thought it might be helpful to others to describe where I sourced my 1951 seals, and also the method I had to use to remove one of the inner seals that was very reluctant to shift.

Firstly, rather than order from Kanter I was able to obtain seals in Australia from ABC Bearings. A phone call and emailing a few photos of the genuine Packard seals I had removed, together with accurate dimensions assisted ABC in sending me the appropriate ones.

As is seen in the photos here, the original Packard outer seals consist of three parts - the grease guard plate, a 'cow-hide' seal and a retaining ring. The retaining ring is a tight fit in the plate and care needs to be taken in removing it to avoid damage to the plate.

If using the type of replacement that I used then the retaining ring will not be required. The new type neoprene seal should be a tight press fit into the plate, tapped in using a socket, or piece of pipe almost the same diameter as the seal.


Rear axle outer seals

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Original Image

Original Image


Removing one of the inner seals was very difficult. I had checked in packardinfo.com the type of Packard tool that was used in the Manual. J-943-B is the recommended tool, and no photo is available in the manual, however a diagram of the tool can be found in the Packard Literature and Manuals, it is on page 34 of the
1950 Packard Kent-Moore Service Tool Guide.
NOTE: Index towards front gives page numbers for a particular area, e.g. Rear Axle is indexed on page 65. Diagram of the tool is on page 34.

When I saw the picture of the tool I noted that it was unlikely to be good enough to remove the seal I had that was tight. So I modified a slider hammer (see pic) and tried for ages to 'hammer' the seal out but to no avail.

Next I bent up some steel strap (heavy stuff - 3/16inch thick, see photo) so I could apply pulling power via a 3-pound hammer. Even using this method it took a long time to get the seal out. I gave up on moving the effort around the seal evenly, in the end I just kept using my fabricated puller in the one spot. The photo shows just how much effort was needed to get the seal out.


Original Image

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Slider hammer (which removed the RHS seal easily), and the special 'heavy duty' puller I fabricated.

'The persuader' - this one did the trick (eventually).

Original Image

When it finally came away the LHS seal was very distorted. Yet the RHS seal was removed very easily.

Original Image

Inner seals

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Replacing the inners was straightforward, using a suitably sized socket and piece of heavy-walled pipe.

The Australian ABC product codes can be seen in the photographs.

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