Re: BigKev's 1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Sedan
Posted by BigKev On 2010/11/23 19:32:04
So some great progress today, now that I am less stressed. Pictures in order of narrative.
Using a stripping wheel on a 4 1/2 grinder, I stripped most of the paint from the passenger side of the car. I did all of this in about 90 mins.
There was also some pin hole rust at the very corner of the quarter panel. This was caused by rat nesting that was piled in the that corner of the trunk and it caused it to rust from the inside out. These will get MIG welded closed.
Looking at the dent on the rear passenger door, the one that has all the filler in it, I didn't look to bad. So I reached in front the inside and was able to pop-up about 80% of the dent by hand.
There were a two significant low spots still. So using a Uni-Spotter I spot welded a few pins to the center of the low spots. A slide hammer attaches to the pins. Normally you would use the slide hammer to forcefully pull the dent out. But since there were low spots, I simply used the slide hammer to pull out on the pins, while I used a body hammer to lightly tap around the edge of the low spot. This force the deformation ridge down, and caused the low spot to "unlock". Once both of the lows spots was removed, I twisted off the pins with a pair of pliers. Then I went over the area with the stripped to remove the pins welding marks. All of this only took about 5-10mins.
Next the rear bumper was removed with the help of an impact wrench and some PB Blaster. Next the rear splash panel was removed. This was a pain as the fastener were very rusted, and the bolt heads were impossible to get a socket on. But after much work I finally got them free.
When I was stripping the rear door, I noticed a patch of metal that had some deep marks in it from stripper wheel. Then I realized what it was. An old lead filler body repair. So this particular door has had at least 3 different dent repairs done to it over the years.
Final shot from the work today.
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Using a stripping wheel on a 4 1/2 grinder, I stripped most of the paint from the passenger side of the car. I did all of this in about 90 mins.
There was also some pin hole rust at the very corner of the quarter panel. This was caused by rat nesting that was piled in the that corner of the trunk and it caused it to rust from the inside out. These will get MIG welded closed.
Looking at the dent on the rear passenger door, the one that has all the filler in it, I didn't look to bad. So I reached in front the inside and was able to pop-up about 80% of the dent by hand.
There were a two significant low spots still. So using a Uni-Spotter I spot welded a few pins to the center of the low spots. A slide hammer attaches to the pins. Normally you would use the slide hammer to forcefully pull the dent out. But since there were low spots, I simply used the slide hammer to pull out on the pins, while I used a body hammer to lightly tap around the edge of the low spot. This force the deformation ridge down, and caused the low spot to "unlock". Once both of the lows spots was removed, I twisted off the pins with a pair of pliers. Then I went over the area with the stripped to remove the pins welding marks. All of this only took about 5-10mins.
Next the rear bumper was removed with the help of an impact wrench and some PB Blaster. Next the rear splash panel was removed. This was a pain as the fastener were very rusted, and the bolt heads were impossible to get a socket on. But after much work I finally got them free.
When I was stripping the rear door, I noticed a patch of metal that had some deep marks in it from stripper wheel. Then I realized what it was. An old lead filler body repair. So this particular door has had at least 3 different dent repairs done to it over the years.
Final shot from the work today.
Attach file:
(147.13 KB)
(68.00 KB)
(75.93 KB)
(68.91 KB)
(51.55 KB)
(56.84 KB)
(74.66 KB)
(76.79 KB)
(65.22 KB)
(53.45 KB)
(82.85 KB)
(110.10 KB)
(67.85 KB)
(72.25 KB)
(77.52 KB)
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