This would have worked, but I didn't shrink enough at the inner part of the bowl shape, and at the point I figured that out it was too late to get the tuck fork back in that deep. So I cut it out and will make a separate bowl shape to weld in. Looking back, it would have been easier to do this from the start, but it was a good learning experience, and now I have a tuck fork for future use. I didn't get any pictures of the bowl shape before I cut it out. It looked good but the shape didn't quite match.
The ramp was formed by stretching at the base of the transition, then bending on the lines over a piece of tubing.
<a href="http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/13082554_950958795022939_2084729807106790479_n_zpsd7p4mthu.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t599/andersonautoglass/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/13082554_950958795022939_2084729807106790479_n_zpsd7p4mthu.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 13082554_950958795022939_2084729807106790479_n_zpsd7p4mthu.jpg"/></a>
Since the floor has a ton of straight beads I made a depth stop/guide for the bead roller. I also clamped a piece of flat bar to the guide to keep the edge flat. The dies were wanting to flare the edge upward since they were very close to the edge, the flat bar prevented the edge from raising up.
<a href="http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/13055582_950957618356390_8507767579796522244_n_zpsehioaip6.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t599/andersonautoglass/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/13055582_950957618356390_8507767579796522244_n_zpsehioaip6.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 13055582_950957618356390_8507767579796522244_n_zpsehioaip6.jpg"/></a>
This Post was from: https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=176260