Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan

Posted by Ken_P On 2016/5/11 23:04:22
It has been a while since my last update, but I've gotten a lot done. I found that installing one washer underneath the lower bearing on the center steering link was sufficient to preclude any vertical motion. I re-installed the center steering link and suspension this weekend. I'm sure those with more experience than me know how to do this already, but it took me a while and a few curse words to figure it out, so I'm posting in case any one else needs the help!

1. Re-install your freshly rebuilt center steering link assembly. This mostly involves holding your mouth right and finagling it through.

2. Install the bolts for the inboard side of the passenger lower control arm. I got them snug but not tight at this point. I also had a jack under the passenger radius arm to unload the spring pressure while I installed the center steering link.

3. Ensure your steering knuckle is attached to the shock or the frame such that it will allow maximum droop without pulling on the brake hose. Again, the manual says to remove the brake hose or backing plate, but I found that wasn't required, and I didn't stretch the brake hose at any point. I just used mechanic's wire to attach the knuckle to the shock with a lot of slack.

4. Ensure the frame is high enough that you can get maximum droop of the drivers side suspension linkage. Install the coil spring. I found that I had to install the upper end of the spring, and then work the lower end from outboard to inboard.

5. [This is the step that caused me some head scratching until I figured it out] It seemed intuitive to me that next step after installing the spring would be to get the lower control arm positioned near where it goes. This is NOT correct, and is impossible to do with the spring installed. With the inboard end of the lower control arm below the frame crossmember that it bolts above, place a jack under the pad where the radius arm meets the control arm. Raise the jack, compressing the spring, until you can re-install the bolt holding the upper end of the steering knuckle to the shock.

6. Continue raising the jack until the lower control arm is, or nearly is, touching the bottom of the frame at the inboard end. Now, and I was skeptical here, take a pry bar and pry the inboard end of the lower control arm out, moving the kingpin out laterally, until the control arm slides up and into position above the frame cross member. This was not intuitive to me, and I have a healthy respect for coil springs, so it was a little uncomfortable to me, but the very deep upper coil bucket holds everything safely in place.

7. Install all the bolts, and break out a cold one! Again I'm sure that is intuitive to those with more Packard experience.

That was this weekend; over the last few evenings I installed the manifolds, carb, and tightened the exhaust. I did rebuild the heat riser. Pictured is the old (curved) and NOS (flat) manifold heat riser plate. Interesting how much the old one bent over time.

The car used to start pretty hard cold. Tonight I primed the fuel by cranking for about 5 seconds twice with the key off, and then turned the key on and pushed the starter button - it caught IMMEDIATELY! Best the car has ever started. Bear in mind it has been off since January. I do have a full tank of ethanol free fuel, so the gas is fine. Amazing how much better it works with a fresh carb and the choke working. There isn't coolant in the car right now, so I only let it run for a few seconds, but it was long enough the see the choke start to open.

Tomorrow and Friday will see side trim going on, finishing up a few loose ends, and detailing, since I am showing it locally on Saturday. Planning on seeing a few Packard friends at the show as well.

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