Re: Ken's 1937 120 Touring Sedan
Posted by Ken_P On 2023/8/7 20:30:08
I finally tackled a project that has been on my list for several years, and per usual, it snowballed. Public service announcement - flush your brake fluid!
For background. I bought the car in 2015. I was planning on flushing the brake system, and converting to DOT5, that year. Life (and 4 moves!) between then and now got in the way, so I had not ever flushed it. I have had the front drums off a few times, and the brakes were clearly rebuilt in recent history - new hard lines, shoes looked essentially new, new rubber lines, etc. Also, the brakes worked GREAT! Firm pedal, stopped well, during a few hard stops nothing drug or pulled to one side or the other, so I always found a reason to do something more urgent, or just drive the thing.
I decided to flush it a few weeks ago. The plan was to put it up on jackstands, drain the system, flush with isopropyl alcohol, then convert to DOT5 fluid. I got through step 1, haha.
When I started inspecting the system, I noticed a little weepage on the master cylinder. Pulled that out for inspection, and noted heavy pitting in the bore, even after honing. Next, inspected the wheel cylinders. Right front and left rear had some rust. The piston for the secondary shoe on the left rear cylinder was completely stuck, and I had to drive it out of the wheel cylinder with a hammer and brass drift! I also found that although the rear brake shoes and drums were in excellent condition, the left rear axle seal was leaking.
So, instead of a simple flush, I am in the midst of the following:
1. Drain old brake fluid (done)
2. Flush all hard lines (done)
2.a. Rebuild the hard line whose nut failed during disassembly (done)
3. Replace rear axle seals (done)
4. Replace master cylinder, all wheel cylinders, and perform major adjustment.
While I was back there, I also drained and re-filled the rear differential. I'll do the transmission too, because it's been 5 years since I last changed the oil in it. (time flies!)
For this job, it is made much simpler by removing the drivers side inner fender for easier access to the master cylinder.
I also learned that if I park the car transversely in the garage, it gives me plenty of room to work on it. Where I park it normally, I only have about 18 inches on one side of the car.
I made a simple tool out of 1/4" steel strap to pull the original leather seals out of the rear axle with my slide hammer. The mechanics wire is for positioning, and I welded a nut to the backside to give my slide hammer something to screw into. It took some doing to get the seals out, but I got them both out before my tool failed catastrophically. The new seals (National 410190) went it without a hitch.
With any luck, I'll finish up and get it back on the road this weekend.
Attach file:
Transverse storage.jpg (214.35 KB)
Rusty wheel cylinder.jpg (157.63 KB)
Leaking rear axle seal and rusty wheel cylinder.jpg (187.53 KB)
Leather seal.jpg (249.16 KB)
Seal removal tool - limited use!.jpg (269.03 KB)
For background. I bought the car in 2015. I was planning on flushing the brake system, and converting to DOT5, that year. Life (and 4 moves!) between then and now got in the way, so I had not ever flushed it. I have had the front drums off a few times, and the brakes were clearly rebuilt in recent history - new hard lines, shoes looked essentially new, new rubber lines, etc. Also, the brakes worked GREAT! Firm pedal, stopped well, during a few hard stops nothing drug or pulled to one side or the other, so I always found a reason to do something more urgent, or just drive the thing.
I decided to flush it a few weeks ago. The plan was to put it up on jackstands, drain the system, flush with isopropyl alcohol, then convert to DOT5 fluid. I got through step 1, haha.
When I started inspecting the system, I noticed a little weepage on the master cylinder. Pulled that out for inspection, and noted heavy pitting in the bore, even after honing. Next, inspected the wheel cylinders. Right front and left rear had some rust. The piston for the secondary shoe on the left rear cylinder was completely stuck, and I had to drive it out of the wheel cylinder with a hammer and brass drift! I also found that although the rear brake shoes and drums were in excellent condition, the left rear axle seal was leaking.
So, instead of a simple flush, I am in the midst of the following:
1. Drain old brake fluid (done)
2. Flush all hard lines (done)
2.a. Rebuild the hard line whose nut failed during disassembly (done)
3. Replace rear axle seals (done)
4. Replace master cylinder, all wheel cylinders, and perform major adjustment.
While I was back there, I also drained and re-filled the rear differential. I'll do the transmission too, because it's been 5 years since I last changed the oil in it. (time flies!)
For this job, it is made much simpler by removing the drivers side inner fender for easier access to the master cylinder.
I also learned that if I park the car transversely in the garage, it gives me plenty of room to work on it. Where I park it normally, I only have about 18 inches on one side of the car.
I made a simple tool out of 1/4" steel strap to pull the original leather seals out of the rear axle with my slide hammer. The mechanics wire is for positioning, and I welded a nut to the backside to give my slide hammer something to screw into. It took some doing to get the seals out, but I got them both out before my tool failed catastrophically. The new seals (National 410190) went it without a hitch.
With any luck, I'll finish up and get it back on the road this weekend.
Attach file:
Transverse storage.jpg (214.35 KB)
Rusty wheel cylinder.jpg (157.63 KB)
Leaking rear axle seal and rusty wheel cylinder.jpg (187.53 KB)
Leather seal.jpg (249.16 KB)
Seal removal tool - limited use!.jpg (269.03 KB)
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