Re: Henry's 37 Limousine
Posted by Cli55er On 2016/8/25 11:18:30
I think there may have been some confusion in my last post. I AM looking for an internally resisted universal 12v coil. the only one I could readily find was the pertronix unit. but surely there are cheaper ones I can get at the auto parts store. I'm just having a hard time. if I new a car make and year that used a 3 ohm internal resisted unit it would be easier.
the coil is already mounted the way I would like it to be. faces the distributor and the new wiring harness has the coil wire coming out perfectly with the other wires I passed through the side of the car at the firewall where the original harness comes out.
I have purchased braided wire loom to make it look more original and to cover up the wire colors. trust me when I'm done it will be top notch.
as for the bypass. it did not have one on the original harness that they hacked up to convert to 12v. it started fine. I temporarily hock up the wires on the new harness to start the car....it started....no bypass needed.
in the pictures you will see I took apart the key switch. it was clean inside. the switch itself is not exactly repairable from a take apart stand point. can't replace that wire at the source. another member said they used a soldering iron to remove the wire from it's terminal, but that was on a 39. mine appeared to be crimped on. the wire itself was good after I took the shielding off. obviously it was a hazard waiting to happen as the insulation wasn't in good shape, but the wire itself was like brand new. so I took the shielding off the backing plate via grinder and used heat shrink on the wire. I put a rubber washer and some silicone on it at the base to keep it from flexing as much so that it didn't break. the rubber washer is under the backing plate and the silicone is on the outside. no pics of that...sorry. fingers covered in goo.
I wouldn't want to have to repair this switch often as the case is that brittle pot metal crap.
also just from thinking about it....you really don't need that coil wire coming out....you could just jump off of the right side of the switch. both the right side and the coil wire output the same voltage when the key is turned to on.
good thinking on the fluids, I do that with every used car I buy. belts, fluids, etc...
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the coil is already mounted the way I would like it to be. faces the distributor and the new wiring harness has the coil wire coming out perfectly with the other wires I passed through the side of the car at the firewall where the original harness comes out.
I have purchased braided wire loom to make it look more original and to cover up the wire colors. trust me when I'm done it will be top notch.
as for the bypass. it did not have one on the original harness that they hacked up to convert to 12v. it started fine. I temporarily hock up the wires on the new harness to start the car....it started....no bypass needed.
in the pictures you will see I took apart the key switch. it was clean inside. the switch itself is not exactly repairable from a take apart stand point. can't replace that wire at the source. another member said they used a soldering iron to remove the wire from it's terminal, but that was on a 39. mine appeared to be crimped on. the wire itself was good after I took the shielding off. obviously it was a hazard waiting to happen as the insulation wasn't in good shape, but the wire itself was like brand new. so I took the shielding off the backing plate via grinder and used heat shrink on the wire. I put a rubber washer and some silicone on it at the base to keep it from flexing as much so that it didn't break. the rubber washer is under the backing plate and the silicone is on the outside. no pics of that...sorry. fingers covered in goo.
I wouldn't want to have to repair this switch often as the case is that brittle pot metal crap.
also just from thinking about it....you really don't need that coil wire coming out....you could just jump off of the right side of the switch. both the right side and the coil wire output the same voltage when the key is turned to on.
good thinking on the fluids, I do that with every used car I buy. belts, fluids, etc...
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