so this happened
Posted by Bob E. On 2018/12/28 19:35:53
Continuing on with rear suspension bushing replacement:
Took apart the Watts linkage today. The existing bushings (with the exception of 1) actually look pretty good. 1st pic is the 6 Center bushings along with one of the new ones. Dwight's kit provides 10 of the same bushings for all locations. Cleaned up the pieces and letting the primer dry now and will paint later. It was a pain grinding the old peened over ends of the center link and felt like they were welded, but got them out. Going to try to tap the pins tomorrow.
With the Watts linkage out, I used my floor jack to raise the driver side frame to pull the tire and start on torque (support) arm bushing replacement. I noticed that the load arm separated from its stirrup. Must be with the Watts linkage out, this can occur. Not exactly sure how to get it back but there was a good discussion in "Stewarts 1955 Packard 400" blog (posts #271-#306 or so) that gives me some ideas. In my case, the body is on the frame so not as much flexibility as Stewart has. This has to be a common occurrence..(?)
Since the load arm was no longer a factor, I decided there was no reason not to remove the entire torque arm. 3 easy bolts later it was out.
I need to decide ASAP if I am better off taking these somewhere to have the old studs removed and new ones installed OR buy 2 from Gerry and install those
instead ($45 each +shipping). Anyone done this before?
Or know where to get the right studs to install??
Next picture is a comparison of the 4 old bushings and 2 of the new ones. I have to say that the old ones are in better shape than I assumed. Original? Hard to believe they are 60+ years old but I have replaced a lot of decent looking bushings on this car so maybe someone did all this within the last few decades. I'm thinking of not replacing the forward bushing of the torque arm for this reason (plus the fact that I don't have them on hand, which is the lazy reason). If I did buy 2 arms from Gerry I would order and install new fwd bushings; looks like Max has a set for ~$56 although I would also check with Dwight to see what he may have.
Looking for advice here on replacing 2 arms or finding the proper studs and taking them somewhere to be properly welded.
No progress on the Carb. Maybe tomorrow I will make one last attempt before I find someone to send it to to make it right. (Howard: i rebuilt the carb a few months ago and when I did I zinged off the ends of the existing screws to enable me to back them out. I then installed new brass 4-40 screws on this WCFB and was worried about properly peening them without bending the shaft so I used red Loctite instead. I didn't realize how good that works so when I tried to remove them last week, I sheared the heads off.
Too many things at once, but enjoying the Christmas break to make real progress.
Thanks for looking....
Attach file:
(355.80 KB)
(127.60 KB)
(414.21 KB)
(453.90 KB)
(181.33 KB)
Took apart the Watts linkage today. The existing bushings (with the exception of 1) actually look pretty good. 1st pic is the 6 Center bushings along with one of the new ones. Dwight's kit provides 10 of the same bushings for all locations. Cleaned up the pieces and letting the primer dry now and will paint later. It was a pain grinding the old peened over ends of the center link and felt like they were welded, but got them out. Going to try to tap the pins tomorrow.
With the Watts linkage out, I used my floor jack to raise the driver side frame to pull the tire and start on torque (support) arm bushing replacement. I noticed that the load arm separated from its stirrup. Must be with the Watts linkage out, this can occur. Not exactly sure how to get it back but there was a good discussion in "Stewarts 1955 Packard 400" blog (posts #271-#306 or so) that gives me some ideas. In my case, the body is on the frame so not as much flexibility as Stewart has. This has to be a common occurrence..(?)
Since the load arm was no longer a factor, I decided there was no reason not to remove the entire torque arm. 3 easy bolts later it was out.
I need to decide ASAP if I am better off taking these somewhere to have the old studs removed and new ones installed OR buy 2 from Gerry and install those
instead ($45 each +shipping). Anyone done this before?
Or know where to get the right studs to install??
Next picture is a comparison of the 4 old bushings and 2 of the new ones. I have to say that the old ones are in better shape than I assumed. Original? Hard to believe they are 60+ years old but I have replaced a lot of decent looking bushings on this car so maybe someone did all this within the last few decades. I'm thinking of not replacing the forward bushing of the torque arm for this reason (plus the fact that I don't have them on hand, which is the lazy reason). If I did buy 2 arms from Gerry I would order and install new fwd bushings; looks like Max has a set for ~$56 although I would also check with Dwight to see what he may have.
Looking for advice here on replacing 2 arms or finding the proper studs and taking them somewhere to be properly welded.
No progress on the Carb. Maybe tomorrow I will make one last attempt before I find someone to send it to to make it right. (Howard: i rebuilt the carb a few months ago and when I did I zinged off the ends of the existing screws to enable me to back them out. I then installed new brass 4-40 screws on this WCFB and was worried about properly peening them without bending the shaft so I used red Loctite instead. I didn't realize how good that works so when I tried to remove them last week, I sheared the heads off.
Too many things at once, but enjoying the Christmas break to make real progress.
Thanks for looking....
Attach file:
(355.80 KB)
(127.60 KB)
(414.21 KB)
(453.90 KB)
(181.33 KB)
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