Re: Bob's '55 Patrician Blog
Posted by Bob E. On 2019/2/5 21:48:11
Relative to the WCFB throttle shafts, I sent the new, longer, one to my nephew that has a machine shop to see if he could shorten it to match the old one. We will see.
Made progress on the rear bushings. I removed the driver rear support arm completely so I could cut out the broken Watts linkage attachment stud. A little bit of effort with my Dremel and many cutting wheels did the trick. The new ones bolted on. Hoping the fact that the Watts linkage attach point will now be about 3/4" further aft than the welded stud won't be a problem.
Cleaned it all up, then reinstalled with the new poly bushings. Getting the front 3 bolts of the support arm in was a PITA since there are two plates where it attaches to the frame and it took a lot of effort to get them to stay aligned. Dwight suggests using a thin metal plate on top of the upper bushings to keep them from being distorted so I used a metal electrical box cover and cut it down. Had to fight with getting the load arm to reseat in the support arm saddle bracket, but enough ups and downs of the axle and frame seemed to get them to line up.
Repeated the process for the passenger side. Here are pics of the new stud (required a tad bit of grinding to get the shock absorber attach bracket to fit.
Load arm gap is there as it was when I used floor jack to raise the frame with the Watts linkages and shocks removed. But , damn, I can't get these two back together. The hanging bracket is much too inboard to mate with load arm. Tried raising frame, lowering axle, vice versa and all combinations. But can't seem to make it work.
I could use some advice. Tried looking at other posts in these forums, but nothing seemed to help out.
thanks for reading
Attach file:
(397.79 KB)
(237.33 KB)
(176.80 KB)
(285.86 KB)
(138.54 KB)
Made progress on the rear bushings. I removed the driver rear support arm completely so I could cut out the broken Watts linkage attachment stud. A little bit of effort with my Dremel and many cutting wheels did the trick. The new ones bolted on. Hoping the fact that the Watts linkage attach point will now be about 3/4" further aft than the welded stud won't be a problem.
Cleaned it all up, then reinstalled with the new poly bushings. Getting the front 3 bolts of the support arm in was a PITA since there are two plates where it attaches to the frame and it took a lot of effort to get them to stay aligned. Dwight suggests using a thin metal plate on top of the upper bushings to keep them from being distorted so I used a metal electrical box cover and cut it down. Had to fight with getting the load arm to reseat in the support arm saddle bracket, but enough ups and downs of the axle and frame seemed to get them to line up.
Repeated the process for the passenger side. Here are pics of the new stud (required a tad bit of grinding to get the shock absorber attach bracket to fit.
Load arm gap is there as it was when I used floor jack to raise the frame with the Watts linkages and shocks removed. But , damn, I can't get these two back together. The hanging bracket is much too inboard to mate with load arm. Tried raising frame, lowering axle, vice versa and all combinations. But can't seem to make it work.
I could use some advice. Tried looking at other posts in these forums, but nothing seemed to help out.
thanks for reading
Attach file:
(397.79 KB)
(237.33 KB)
(176.80 KB)
(285.86 KB)
(138.54 KB)
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