Quote:
Ross wrote:
Just wondering if there are timing relays available that can carry enough current to obviate the need for the relays up on the fender.
Just run the signal from the arm switch through the limit switches, to the timing relays located in some convenient place. They would power the motor up and down.
Ross, this is an interesting idea. A question would be how many would consider that approach and want to eliminate or bypass the solenoids rather than just having the relays work them as the conversions are now made.
In a 55 bulletin Packard said the motor under normal conditions should pull about 17 amps and installed an inline fuse of 20 amps. In 56 they upped the fuse to 30 amps. The contacts in the cube type relays Riki and I are considering are rated at 30 amps. One question with relays as the main switching device would be if the motor stalled and pulled max current which would go first -- the fuse or would the relay contacts weld and then the fuse decide to blow. The small safety margin might be a consideration. Any larger relays will be expensive and harder to package
For a 56 making the TD relays external and wiring them would be relatively easy. For a 55, because of the limit switch configuration, maybe a bit harder. In either case, the control box would still need to be opened and the original bimetal timer and relays removed or at least bypassed. Cost wise, with everything needed cube type TD relays would probably be less than the reworked solid state boxes alone since the relays and additional things needed are not that expensive.
One thing I am concerned about with mounting the TD relays inside the control box is space and placing them in a weathertight box mounted on top of the control switch might be feasible no matter if they still operate the solenoids or work the motor directly. Pin layout is the same as the typical cube relay but the case is longer and it requires mostly gutting the control box to fit them inside. The conversions with timer board must use a much smaller relay. No idea about the contact rating on those relays.
Anyone have comments on either approach and whether relays should be in or could be tolerated if outside the control box??
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