Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
Posted by kevinpackard On 2020/10/9 11:06:10
While I'm waiting for paint to arrive I'm wanting to get the car running better. Since most of this is new to me I need a bit of guidance.
The car doesn't start very easily (have to give it some gas while starting....rough for a few seconds, then smooths out some). I really don't like doing that because it the engine is at a much higher RPM than idle when it starts. The idle is definitely not totally smooth. There is a really pronounced hesitation when I accelerate, sometimes causing it to die. The exhaust smells like a mixture of a 2-stroke engine (probably because of the MMO and Seafoam I added to the tank) and gas, so probably still rich. And it smokes because of the added oils. It's definitely not where it needs to be.
Where should I start? Here's a list of what I've seen and what I'm thinking:
1.) Fuel filter is original ceramic in the bowl. Probably clogged. Probably better to go paper filter?
2.) The distributor twists freely despite the set screw being tightened. I can tell that the fuel compensator plate (is that the right word) is the problem...It is able to slide up and down despite both the mounting bolts being tight. How do I remove the distributor? I haven't found any clear guidance on that in the manuals. I want to take it off and figure out what's going on with the fuel plate.
3.) After I get the distributor sorted out, what should I check next? Plugs are new, wires are new. Should I just get a new rotor and cap for fun?
4.) I'd also like to check the vacuum and adjust the idle mixture screws using that. From what I've read and watched I need to hook the gauge into the manifold vacuum. Where would I do that on this engine?
5.) I still haven't had luck with my fuel level gauge and temperature gauge. Neither work. Neither have their needles on "zero" either (see pic). New fuel tank sender and I ground the tank with a wire attached to it. Was I supposed to scrape off the paint on the new tank where the fuel sender mounts?
6.) How would I test the temperature gauge to see if the gauge is the problem? I read someone on here grounding one of the pins and it would peg the gauge, showing it worked. That was a different car, so not sure if it would work here? I'm very hesitant to run the engine if I don't know if I'm getting too hot.
7.) I ran it a bit last night and though the radiator was getting warm, I felt no water running through the upper hose. Level in the radiator looks okay, maybe a bit low. I'm assuming the thermostat doesn't allow water flow until temp is reached (180), but is it good preventative maintenance to replace the thermostat just because? Again, I have no idea what my engine temp is so I'm not even sure the thermostat works.
Sorry for the novel. Lots of things I'm trying to make sense of so I can keep the project rolling.
-Kevin
Attach file:
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The car doesn't start very easily (have to give it some gas while starting....rough for a few seconds, then smooths out some). I really don't like doing that because it the engine is at a much higher RPM than idle when it starts. The idle is definitely not totally smooth. There is a really pronounced hesitation when I accelerate, sometimes causing it to die. The exhaust smells like a mixture of a 2-stroke engine (probably because of the MMO and Seafoam I added to the tank) and gas, so probably still rich. And it smokes because of the added oils. It's definitely not where it needs to be.
Where should I start? Here's a list of what I've seen and what I'm thinking:
1.) Fuel filter is original ceramic in the bowl. Probably clogged. Probably better to go paper filter?
2.) The distributor twists freely despite the set screw being tightened. I can tell that the fuel compensator plate (is that the right word) is the problem...It is able to slide up and down despite both the mounting bolts being tight. How do I remove the distributor? I haven't found any clear guidance on that in the manuals. I want to take it off and figure out what's going on with the fuel plate.
3.) After I get the distributor sorted out, what should I check next? Plugs are new, wires are new. Should I just get a new rotor and cap for fun?
4.) I'd also like to check the vacuum and adjust the idle mixture screws using that. From what I've read and watched I need to hook the gauge into the manifold vacuum. Where would I do that on this engine?
5.) I still haven't had luck with my fuel level gauge and temperature gauge. Neither work. Neither have their needles on "zero" either (see pic). New fuel tank sender and I ground the tank with a wire attached to it. Was I supposed to scrape off the paint on the new tank where the fuel sender mounts?
6.) How would I test the temperature gauge to see if the gauge is the problem? I read someone on here grounding one of the pins and it would peg the gauge, showing it worked. That was a different car, so not sure if it would work here? I'm very hesitant to run the engine if I don't know if I'm getting too hot.
7.) I ran it a bit last night and though the radiator was getting warm, I felt no water running through the upper hose. Level in the radiator looks okay, maybe a bit low. I'm assuming the thermostat doesn't allow water flow until temp is reached (180), but is it good preventative maintenance to replace the thermostat just because? Again, I have no idea what my engine temp is so I'm not even sure the thermostat works.
Sorry for the novel. Lots of things I'm trying to make sense of so I can keep the project rolling.
-Kevin
Attach file:
(188.93 KB)
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