Re: KPack
Posted by kevinpackard On 2021/5/25 13:04:27
Quote:
David - there is nothing abnormal when putting the car in gear. No clunks, shudder, or driveline vibration. I was under the car yesterday, before any test drives, taking a look at the rear u-joint and noted some fluid coming out from a couple areas. Not surprising, since this shaft really hasn't spun much for many years. I twisted out the two slotted bearing cups enough to inject some 140 oil in there in hopes that it would help lube the rest of the internals. It was at this point I realized that the two slotted bearing cups had no C-clips on them, so it's a miracle they didn't come out during my previous drives. I picked up some clips from the hardware store and popped them on for now.
I'll try your suggestion of tightening the brakes one at a time and testing.
I did loosen the driver's rear brakes two clicks yesterday before my test drive. I felt like they were grabbing too much on that side making it hard to turn. I'm not sure if maybe that made the sound louder or not.
-Kevin
Attach file:
Rear universal joint.jpg (132.45 KB)
DavidPackard wrote:
Kevin, I would be quite reluctant to stop a spinning tire with a gloved hand. Perhaps I would do that if the car was on a lift and I could easily apply friction directly on the tire thread. If you have a helper available have them put the brakes on, and then then the wheel is not spinning you hold the wheel while they slowly release the brakes (emphasis on slowly), but I think there is a better way.
I would use the brakes myself and adjust one side ‘tight’. The process would be to tighten by X clicks ( that would be the amount it takes to completely stop the wheel from spinning ), and evaluate whether the squeak is still audible. Then loosen that side X clicks and go to the other wheel. With you not part of the process of holding the wheels you’re free to investigate the location of the squeak . . . perhaps its outboard at the brake drum, or closer to the differential.
If you can pin-down which wheel makes the noise, and the noise is likely coming from the drum, then I would loosen those brakes and reevaluate. If the noise is coming from the friction surface of the brake shoes, then when running the shoes loose should alter the amplitude of the noise.
If the noise is there throughout the process of stopping one wheel at a time, then the common components would be the propeller shaft and differential. I don’t think a component covered in gear oil can produce a squeak. I’ve seen U-joints completely dry and rusted, but I can’t remember if the complaint was ‘squeaking’, or ‘thunking’ (sp) when the transmission was dropped into gear. Kevin, is there any abnormal noises then torque is first applied to the drive-line?
dp
David - there is nothing abnormal when putting the car in gear. No clunks, shudder, or driveline vibration. I was under the car yesterday, before any test drives, taking a look at the rear u-joint and noted some fluid coming out from a couple areas. Not surprising, since this shaft really hasn't spun much for many years. I twisted out the two slotted bearing cups enough to inject some 140 oil in there in hopes that it would help lube the rest of the internals. It was at this point I realized that the two slotted bearing cups had no C-clips on them, so it's a miracle they didn't come out during my previous drives. I picked up some clips from the hardware store and popped them on for now.
I'll try your suggestion of tightening the brakes one at a time and testing.
I did loosen the driver's rear brakes two clicks yesterday before my test drive. I felt like they were grabbing too much on that side making it hard to turn. I'm not sure if maybe that made the sound louder or not.
-Kevin
Attach file:
Rear universal joint.jpg (132.45 KB)
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