Re: 56 Caribbean Convertible Rejuvenation
Posted by HH56 On 2022/4/11 12:16:29
If you decide to get the wiring and switches sorted out per the diagram in post #4 before going to Ross and still the TL does not work automatically there is a good chance the contacts in the control switch have oxidized or a wire has broken where it solders into the terminals at the base of one of the limit switches.
If you still have an original control switch, sometimes it is the main mechanically operated contacts (1) in the photo below that are at fault but since they sort of self wipe, more often it has been the bimetal contacts (2) which have developed a dirty or oxidized insulating layer and need a considerable amount of pressure generated by the bimetal strip before contact is made thru them to bring in the relays. Even NOS switches that have sat on a shelf for 60 years have had this problem. If you have issues sometimes a quick run thru of all contacts with a burnishing strip or ign point file will solve the problem. If the drape of the loom is tight -- particularly to the limit switch nearest the driveshaft -- vibration and wire fatigue at the switch terminal has been an issue.
There is also a small chance water has gotten inside the solenoids and one or both are at fault. Not usually an issue on a 56 since their solenoids are no longer under the car but some have had it happen. IIRC when Randy Berger brought his Caribbean home he said the car suddenly started moving and it became obvious it was not due to the occasional brief touch up movement under the command of the control switch. By the time he got over to the car and pulled the battery cable the TL had moved past the limit switch. After troubleshooting, the issue turned out to be a solenoid had somehow gathered a layer of rust and corrosion inside and the plunger had stuck.
Attach file:
TL switch contacts.jpg (148.12 KB)
If you still have an original control switch, sometimes it is the main mechanically operated contacts (1) in the photo below that are at fault but since they sort of self wipe, more often it has been the bimetal contacts (2) which have developed a dirty or oxidized insulating layer and need a considerable amount of pressure generated by the bimetal strip before contact is made thru them to bring in the relays. Even NOS switches that have sat on a shelf for 60 years have had this problem. If you have issues sometimes a quick run thru of all contacts with a burnishing strip or ign point file will solve the problem. If the drape of the loom is tight -- particularly to the limit switch nearest the driveshaft -- vibration and wire fatigue at the switch terminal has been an issue.
There is also a small chance water has gotten inside the solenoids and one or both are at fault. Not usually an issue on a 56 since their solenoids are no longer under the car but some have had it happen. IIRC when Randy Berger brought his Caribbean home he said the car suddenly started moving and it became obvious it was not due to the occasional brief touch up movement under the command of the control switch. By the time he got over to the car and pulled the battery cable the TL had moved past the limit switch. After troubleshooting, the issue turned out to be a solenoid had somehow gathered a layer of rust and corrosion inside and the plunger had stuck.
Attach file:
TL switch contacts.jpg (148.12 KB)
This Post was from: https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=242741