Re: Resurrecting my 56’ Patrician

Posted by Bob J On 2023/10/5 16:09:36

My bleeding method:
When bleeding brakes I always start with the longest brake line and go through to the shortest, usually this is Passenger rear, Driver's rear, Passenger's front, Driver's front. In this way the air is expelled through the entire system from long to short leaving no air bubbles behind, I grant you this is on a single style master cylinder, but it works on a duel master too.
As to bleeding the brakes, being a shade tree guy I do it by myself and it goes like this:
(Car on level)
1-Find a container that you can pour some brake fluid into, (I use a cleaned out soup can).
2-Attach a vacuum hose or windshield washer rubber line from the nipple on the bleed screw to the container making sure the line is long enough it stays below the level of the fluid in the container. Loosen bleed screw. (Clip line to container if necessary. Prop the container too if it is unstable)
3-SLOWLY press the brake peddle down by hand until you reach the end of the throw, then allow it to slowly return. Going slow ensures no agitating the fluid to introduce any unwanted bubbles at the master. (Air cannot enter the system as long as the drain line from the wheel cylinder stays below the top level of the container, it will be forced to come into the system through the vent on the master cylinder's cap)
4-Repeat a few cycles and check the master cylinder and fill as necessary, also check the container to make sure it is not too full. If so, tighten the bleed screw and simply replace this fluid into the master cylinder (IF A NEW SYSTEM FILL, if you are replacing old fluid, dispose of it properly.)
Repeat until no air comes out of that line and each cycle of the pedal sends an equal amount to the container. You can tell easily as the container fills rapidly once the air is gone.
5-Repeat at the next longest line until all 4 are done, closing (tightening) the bleed screw after each purge and removing the rubber hose/container and moving it to the next wheel cylinder.
You can also do this by pressing with your foot, but I have found a more sensitive feedback through my hand than my foot to feel when the line is properly flushed.
Last step after you think all is good is to press as hard as possible on the brake pedal to see if you have a 'hard' pedal. There will likely be a bit more travel than you want at first as you can now go around and adjust the shoes more accurately as they will now have been better seated than when you set them 'cold'. As Big Kev pointed out too, a final tweak after a test drive may find even more dialed in adjusting needed after further shoe seating occurs with some heat from the test drive.
Also it is important to get under the car and verify after the static brake test that you have NO fluid leaks at any line joints or wheel cylinders and of course the master.