Re: 1924 Sport 136

Posted by Karl On 2023/12/21 15:22:58

The body was in a restorable condition. All sheet metal parts of the body were only slightly affected by rust. The two main wooden planks running from front to back on the right and left were in a stable condition. The wood between the doors had rotted from moisture and could easily be replaced with new ones. I only replace structural wooden parts that need to be replaced with ash wood. I also optimized the gap dimensions of the doors. A very time-consuming job, as the doors can only be adjusted vertically by lining or removing wood in the hinge stop area. The problem is that the wood screws can no longer hold in the 100-year-old, dead wood and are spinning. I solve this problem by inserting dowels into the otherwise stable wooden parts. I drill the holes 8-12 mm depending on the screw diameter, fill the holes with expanding PU glue (Titebond PU 335) and hammer in a suitable beech wood dowel. The dowel forms an extremely strong connection with the old wood. I don't know of any other glue that forms such a strong bond with old wood and also fills possible gaps and smaller cavities.
The wooden frames of the doors on 3 doors were twisted so that one corner in each case protruded up to 5mm from the body line. In one case, so much so that it was necessary to completely remove the sheet metal paneling in order to straighten the frame and re-glue the loosened, glued corners with a special adhesive. For all other door frames, it was sufficient to overstretch them against the distortion when installed and fix them in this position. I filled the resulting gaps in the corner connections with an expanding special adhesive and immediately drove very thinly ground wooden wedges into the gaps. How this is done in detail is not easy to describe and it takes some experience to do it in such a way that it leads to the desired result.

Attach file:

---

  k-P1030946.JPG (309.43 KB)


  k-P1030397.JPG (290.68 KB)


  k-P1030777.JPG (164.43 KB)


  k-P1030779.JPG (138.69 KB)