Re: 1924 Sport 136
Posted by Karl On 2023/12/22 6:28:02
All of the wooden panels on the floor, which were originally made of boards, were replaced with the cheapest plywood. Likewise the front wall. I created this area with waterproof glued multi-layer beech wood (German name “Multiplex”). These multiplex panels are used here in Germany in various areas of vehicle construction. The metal tray under the rear seat was missing. I made a new one.
After the paint and filler were removed, the front fenders showed a heavily rusted surface but no rust through. These severe rust scars were also spread all over the frame. I reinforced the area where the connecting rod on which the headlights are mounted connects the two front fenders with a 2mm plate to prevent the fenders from warping the panels at this point. Because the rod and headlights have a lot of weight when this area is shaken while driving.
The rear fenders were in a sorry state. Apart from the severe rust scars, the rear parts were rusted through. Some areas were poorly welded over with sheet metal. Others, however, are “professionally” pasted over with fiberglass fabric and everything is covered with a thick layer of putty. All surfaces had probably never been completely rust removed. Apparently the surfaces had only been brushed by hand or possibly with a flex and cup brush. The remaining rust was simply painted over. I reworked the rusted areas in their shape and welded these sheets together.
I`show the restored floor later, because the body is at the paintshop right now.
The running boards were so bent and rusted through that I replaced them. I made the parts from 2mm stainless steel according to the original parts.
After their restoration, all restored sheet metal parts were sandblasted and primed with epoxy primer.
After their restoration, all restored sheet metal parts were sandblasted and primed with epoxy primer. In order to check the fit, all body parts were assembled on a test basis.
Attach file:
k-P1020715.JPG (174.55 KB)
k-P1020717.JPG (231.71 KB)
k-P1040134.JPG (262.34 KB)
k-P1040136.JPG (261.99 KB)
k-P1040139.JPG (78.88 KB)
k-P1040137.JPG (105.12 KB)
k-P1040140.JPG (104.56 KB)
k-P1040141.JPG (161.46 KB)
k-P1040163.JPG (130.00 KB)
k-P1040159.JPG (125.92 KB)
After the paint and filler were removed, the front fenders showed a heavily rusted surface but no rust through. These severe rust scars were also spread all over the frame. I reinforced the area where the connecting rod on which the headlights are mounted connects the two front fenders with a 2mm plate to prevent the fenders from warping the panels at this point. Because the rod and headlights have a lot of weight when this area is shaken while driving.
The rear fenders were in a sorry state. Apart from the severe rust scars, the rear parts were rusted through. Some areas were poorly welded over with sheet metal. Others, however, are “professionally” pasted over with fiberglass fabric and everything is covered with a thick layer of putty. All surfaces had probably never been completely rust removed. Apparently the surfaces had only been brushed by hand or possibly with a flex and cup brush. The remaining rust was simply painted over. I reworked the rusted areas in their shape and welded these sheets together.
I`show the restored floor later, because the body is at the paintshop right now.
The running boards were so bent and rusted through that I replaced them. I made the parts from 2mm stainless steel according to the original parts.
After their restoration, all restored sheet metal parts were sandblasted and primed with epoxy primer.
After their restoration, all restored sheet metal parts were sandblasted and primed with epoxy primer. In order to check the fit, all body parts were assembled on a test basis.
Attach file:
k-P1020715.JPG (174.55 KB)
k-P1020717.JPG (231.71 KB)
k-P1040134.JPG (262.34 KB)
k-P1040136.JPG (261.99 KB)
k-P1040139.JPG (78.88 KB)
k-P1040137.JPG (105.12 KB)
k-P1040140.JPG (104.56 KB)
k-P1040141.JPG (161.46 KB)
k-P1040163.JPG (130.00 KB)
k-P1040159.JPG (125.92 KB)
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