Re: 1924 Sport 136
Posted by Karl On 2024/1/9 11:32:17
Detail work on the Body
“Door Stops”
The original shape of the door stop timbers was damaged on all 4 doors.
Some of the protruding wooden parts into which, for example, the door guide parts or the rubber stop are inserted, had some of the wood broken out or was completely missing. Accordingly, the metal fittings were either missing or had been replaced by wrong parts from other cars in order to be able to close the doors at all. The broken wooden parts were recreated from ash wood. Since some of the parts are small, it is not enough to simply replace them with glue. In any case, they should also be pegged sufficiently deep into the old wood using metal or wooden pins.
I recreated the missing brass fittings. I made some tools with which I could press the parts into shape. After edging the brass and sheet metal parts, I closed the remaining open slots with silver solder. I know that the larger brass door guide covers can be purchased as replicas. The problem with these parts is that they don’t fit exactly into the existing mounts. Most of the time these have to be adjusted first. In addition, I don't want to pay the prices quoted for them if I still have to rework them anyway. All parts are nickel-plated. For screws I use stainless steel screws whose heads I polish. The color of the stainless-steel heads then matches the nickel very well. When using stainless steel wood screws in solid wood such as ash, oak or beech, be sure to pre-drill. Smaller screw diameters cannot tolerate high torque and tend to tear off.
Karl
Attach file:
k-P1030788.JPG (110.70 KB)
k-P1030789.JPG (128.92 KB)
k-P1030790.JPG (126.24 KB)
k-P1030796.JPG (144.04 KB)
k-P1030797.JPG (137.14 KB)
k-P1030820.JPG (122.10 KB)
k-P1030929.JPG (89.02 KB)
k-P1030931.JPG (133.80 KB)
“Door Stops”
The original shape of the door stop timbers was damaged on all 4 doors.
Some of the protruding wooden parts into which, for example, the door guide parts or the rubber stop are inserted, had some of the wood broken out or was completely missing. Accordingly, the metal fittings were either missing or had been replaced by wrong parts from other cars in order to be able to close the doors at all. The broken wooden parts were recreated from ash wood. Since some of the parts are small, it is not enough to simply replace them with glue. In any case, they should also be pegged sufficiently deep into the old wood using metal or wooden pins.
I recreated the missing brass fittings. I made some tools with which I could press the parts into shape. After edging the brass and sheet metal parts, I closed the remaining open slots with silver solder. I know that the larger brass door guide covers can be purchased as replicas. The problem with these parts is that they don’t fit exactly into the existing mounts. Most of the time these have to be adjusted first. In addition, I don't want to pay the prices quoted for them if I still have to rework them anyway. All parts are nickel-plated. For screws I use stainless steel screws whose heads I polish. The color of the stainless-steel heads then matches the nickel very well. When using stainless steel wood screws in solid wood such as ash, oak or beech, be sure to pre-drill. Smaller screw diameters cannot tolerate high torque and tend to tear off.
Karl
Attach file:
k-P1030788.JPG (110.70 KB)
k-P1030789.JPG (128.92 KB)
k-P1030790.JPG (126.24 KB)
k-P1030796.JPG (144.04 KB)
k-P1030797.JPG (137.14 KB)
k-P1030820.JPG (122.10 KB)
k-P1030929.JPG (89.02 KB)
k-P1030931.JPG (133.80 KB)
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