Re: Ken's 1953 Packard Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan
Posted by kens53clip On 2011/2/21 12:14:46
August 2010:
Changed antifreeze, putting in new antifreeze that supposedly works in all vehicles, old and new, dexcool or not. Afterward noticed Packard was running a little hotter and losing some antifreeze out of the overflow tube after the Packard quit running. Previously temperature needle was over the M in "Temp" on gauge but now it went up to P in "Temp" on gauge. Anybody have any experience with these new-fangled "for all cars" antifreezes running hotter?
August-September 2010:
Bought a new thermostat at NAPA to cool the Packard down a bit. Thermostat, Packard part # 5.0506, is inside of the flange-head water outlet, Packard part #5.0508, bolted down to the cylinder head. The thermostat is held inside the flange head water outlet by a retainer-head thermostat, Packard part # 5.0507, a wire spring for my car, a circular piece of metal looking like a small section of pipe for some other cars. Also, a gasket is between the cylinder head and the flange-head water outlet, Packard part # 5.0509. This is all illustrated on Plate # 91 in the 1948-1954 Packard Parts Manual.
Tried to glue down the flange-head water outlet to the cylinder head three times before it worked. First time I did not take the upper radiator hose off of the flange-head water outlet (trying to avoid having to replace the upper radiator hose) and used gasket cement. It leaked. Second time I did not take the upper radiator hose off of the flange-head water outlet and used a water pump silicone adhesive. It leaked. Third time I took the upper radiator hose off of the flange-head water outlet, used a water pump silicone adhesive, let it dry a day, and forced more water pump silicone adhesive into the joint with a putty knife and let it dry before I cranked it up. Used up all of my tube of water pump silicone adhesive. All three times I did my best to clean off the old adhesive off of the cylinder head and the flange-head water outlet before applying new adhesive. Third time was the charm. Also replaced the upper radiator hose and hose clamps.
Parts:
160 degree thermostat--NAPA--THM 530060
Thermostat gasket--NAPA--THM 1040-ST
Water pump silicone adhesive--NAPA--BK 765-3017
Upper radiator hose--NAPA--NBH 7694 (Molded hose. Cut to fit.)
Hose clamps(not original wire type)--NAPA--BK 505-1232
August-September 2010:
Still having a little problem with antifreeze down the overflow tube. Original radiator cap was AC's RC-3. Found reproduction of original AC cap on Internet for a lot more than I wanted to pay for it. NAPA had a less expensive one that fit fine so I bought NAPA's radiator cap instead. That took care of the overflow. But the car still runs a bit hotter than it did before I changed the antifreeze.
Radiator cap--NAPA--BK 703-1411
Attach file:
(51.75 KB)
Changed antifreeze, putting in new antifreeze that supposedly works in all vehicles, old and new, dexcool or not. Afterward noticed Packard was running a little hotter and losing some antifreeze out of the overflow tube after the Packard quit running. Previously temperature needle was over the M in "Temp" on gauge but now it went up to P in "Temp" on gauge. Anybody have any experience with these new-fangled "for all cars" antifreezes running hotter?
August-September 2010:
Bought a new thermostat at NAPA to cool the Packard down a bit. Thermostat, Packard part # 5.0506, is inside of the flange-head water outlet, Packard part #5.0508, bolted down to the cylinder head. The thermostat is held inside the flange head water outlet by a retainer-head thermostat, Packard part # 5.0507, a wire spring for my car, a circular piece of metal looking like a small section of pipe for some other cars. Also, a gasket is between the cylinder head and the flange-head water outlet, Packard part # 5.0509. This is all illustrated on Plate # 91 in the 1948-1954 Packard Parts Manual.
Tried to glue down the flange-head water outlet to the cylinder head three times before it worked. First time I did not take the upper radiator hose off of the flange-head water outlet (trying to avoid having to replace the upper radiator hose) and used gasket cement. It leaked. Second time I did not take the upper radiator hose off of the flange-head water outlet and used a water pump silicone adhesive. It leaked. Third time I took the upper radiator hose off of the flange-head water outlet, used a water pump silicone adhesive, let it dry a day, and forced more water pump silicone adhesive into the joint with a putty knife and let it dry before I cranked it up. Used up all of my tube of water pump silicone adhesive. All three times I did my best to clean off the old adhesive off of the cylinder head and the flange-head water outlet before applying new adhesive. Third time was the charm. Also replaced the upper radiator hose and hose clamps.
Parts:
160 degree thermostat--NAPA--THM 530060
Thermostat gasket--NAPA--THM 1040-ST
Water pump silicone adhesive--NAPA--BK 765-3017
Upper radiator hose--NAPA--NBH 7694 (Molded hose. Cut to fit.)
Hose clamps(not original wire type)--NAPA--BK 505-1232
August-September 2010:
Still having a little problem with antifreeze down the overflow tube. Original radiator cap was AC's RC-3. Found reproduction of original AC cap on Internet for a lot more than I wanted to pay for it. NAPA had a less expensive one that fit fine so I bought NAPA's radiator cap instead. That took care of the overflow. But the car still runs a bit hotter than it did before I changed the antifreeze.
Radiator cap--NAPA--BK 703-1411
Attach file:
(51.75 KB)
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