Re: Larry's 1951 Club Sedan Project
Posted by Larry51 On 2012/12/9 23:58:55
Trunk Lid Prep
Two postings in a day!!
Unusual for me, but the reason is I have to take it easy due to a sore foot. So it's a few days of desk-jockeying for me.
Like all boot lids mine had been 'closed' quite a few times onto stuff that was too high to allow the lid to shut properly. So there were a few high spots and as many low spots, like small creases where the lid had been opened and struck an edge above it.
I stripped the entire lid with stripper discs after scraping away the 'stoneguard' (- which scraped off very easily after softening it with a heat gun).
The lid was surprisingly free of rust, with only about eight inches of the lower lip with some minor perforations. I cut that 8" away with a 1mm disc and checked inside the opening. Not bad for a sixty year old car, just minor scale there, which you cannot get at properly to remove. The spike test showed no thin metal, so I'll do all the prep and painting, then give all the inner surfaces a good dose of wax-oil (Dynax 50) later.
I guess anyone restoring an old car enjoys the challenges and the changes from one task to a different task as you continually move to some new or different part of the resto. It was great to do some metal fabrication (even tho' it was just making a small single-fold lip with no major curves or tricky bits). Then a bit of welding / grinding / filing. That made a good change from the panel surfacing and sanding that has occupied me for a few weeks lately.
The welding went well, with me only burning a couple of holes (which were easy to re-weld). That happened when I didn't have my piece of copper sheet behind the weld. Often think it would be nice to get a TIG but I don't think I'd get the use out of it.
I was able to use my stainless steel shrinker disk on the highs, getting them all down level. Certainly is more convenient using one of these discs than heating with oxy. Then I worked on the lows which came up with very little beating. The Packard steel certainly beats well, no spring to it so I think it might be aluminium-killed, or forged some way that has it very malleable! Really is a pleasure to work with.
Then used a small amount of U-Pol Flyweight bog in a couple of lows after priming the whole lid inside and out with 2-pak PPG epoxy-urethane. Then it was 4 coats of 2k hi-build spray filler and hours of blocking. Repeated the process and the lid was very straight.
Suddenly it was no longer straight when I dropped it onto the garage floor when trying to move it! Bent two corners so it was more beating and filling to get things straight again.
The final stage (future) will be applying new stoneguard. Have yet to discover if the final paint goes over the stoneguard, or whether the stoneguard stays 'au natural' black.
It had been sprayed over on my boot lid, but I noticed the lid paint was not original. Had been re-sprayed some time, so not sure what the factory 'original' scheme was.
63: Showing the small (8") rusty section at base of trunk lid
66: Replacement metal section fabricated
67:
68: Area cleaned, ready for welding
69: MIG welder set up
75: Cleaned up
82: ready for some filler
87: Inner side ready for primer
Two postings in a day!!
Unusual for me, but the reason is I have to take it easy due to a sore foot. So it's a few days of desk-jockeying for me.Like all boot lids mine had been 'closed' quite a few times onto stuff that was too high to allow the lid to shut properly. So there were a few high spots and as many low spots, like small creases where the lid had been opened and struck an edge above it.
I stripped the entire lid with stripper discs after scraping away the 'stoneguard' (- which scraped off very easily after softening it with a heat gun).
The lid was surprisingly free of rust, with only about eight inches of the lower lip with some minor perforations. I cut that 8" away with a 1mm disc and checked inside the opening. Not bad for a sixty year old car, just minor scale there, which you cannot get at properly to remove. The spike test showed no thin metal, so I'll do all the prep and painting, then give all the inner surfaces a good dose of wax-oil (Dynax 50) later.
I guess anyone restoring an old car enjoys the challenges and the changes from one task to a different task as you continually move to some new or different part of the resto. It was great to do some metal fabrication (even tho' it was just making a small single-fold lip with no major curves or tricky bits). Then a bit of welding / grinding / filing. That made a good change from the panel surfacing and sanding that has occupied me for a few weeks lately.
The welding went well, with me only burning a couple of holes (which were easy to re-weld). That happened when I didn't have my piece of copper sheet behind the weld. Often think it would be nice to get a TIG but I don't think I'd get the use out of it.
I was able to use my stainless steel shrinker disk on the highs, getting them all down level. Certainly is more convenient using one of these discs than heating with oxy. Then I worked on the lows which came up with very little beating. The Packard steel certainly beats well, no spring to it so I think it might be aluminium-killed, or forged some way that has it very malleable! Really is a pleasure to work with.
Then used a small amount of U-Pol Flyweight bog in a couple of lows after priming the whole lid inside and out with 2-pak PPG epoxy-urethane. Then it was 4 coats of 2k hi-build spray filler and hours of blocking. Repeated the process and the lid was very straight.
Suddenly it was no longer straight when I dropped it onto the garage floor when trying to move it! Bent two corners so it was more beating and filling to get things straight again.
The final stage (future) will be applying new stoneguard. Have yet to discover if the final paint goes over the stoneguard, or whether the stoneguard stays 'au natural' black.
It had been sprayed over on my boot lid, but I noticed the lid paint was not original. Had been re-sprayed some time, so not sure what the factory 'original' scheme was.
63: Showing the small (8") rusty section at base of trunk lid
66: Replacement metal section fabricated
67:
68: Area cleaned, ready for welding
69: MIG welder set up
75: Cleaned up
82: ready for some filler
87: Inner side ready for primer
This Post was from: https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=114217