Re: Larry's 1951 Club Sedan Project
Posted by Larry51 On 2011/4/4 5:48:44
Modification to eliminate corrosion in rear quarter panels and rear floor area.
Here are pics relating to the 'drip tray' modification that I've mentioned previously, and provided rough drawings / diagrams for (- see back one page - Post #48).
I'll be placing specially made aluminium drip trays in each rear quarter to catch the water that typically enters the area due to poor design in these 24th (and other?) series Coupe's like my Club Sedan.
The problem was known to Packard and they released a modification kit (post-production) to try and address the problem. For details see section regarding water ingress in the '51-54 Service Manual: Section XIX 'Body' page 24: 'Rear Quarter Water Leaks (Club Sedans)'.
The trays are now made and I checked they can be fitted OK. Won't be fitting them until the car has been painted and schutz /anti-rust coatings etc have been sprayed into the rear quarters as required.
Trays are thin Aluminium sheeting, pop-riveted, and joints have been sealed with SikaFlex 227. I bent the sheet at a friend's place (- he has a brake so it was easy) but you could easily bend it yourself by clamping along a bench edge etc and using a mallet or rubber hammer. These trays are not visible so it's not necessary to do a perfectly neat job with them.
The curved upper tray back was able to be bent in a vice (vise?) - a little at a time to get a smooth curve. See marks made to achieve this.
Pics below show the idea I have for fitting the drain pipe into the trays, using 1/2inch copper pipe and flaring the end so as to secure it into the tray. The hole in the tray will be 'countersunk' as shown, and I'll use a putty like the one shown (- dead easy to use this and it works really well) to secure it although you could use bondo or most other fillers would do the trick.
The pipe will be bent so it feeds into the larger pipe already fitted into the sill.
Not shown is the flexible 'rubber sheet' (- I may use some other thin sheeting instead of rubber-) which will be attached (glued with sealant) to the metal sides above the trays. This sheet will direct the water into the tray instead of letting it run down the sides and then flowing into the rear floor area to create rust.
Ready to assemble
Pop riveted
Sash clamp to compress the tray before riveting
Fixing detail. Sealant will be used to prevent leaks from the trays
Bending method for the curved (upper) tray
Close . . .
Completed
Full unit
Mock-up of pipe fitting
Quiksteel Epoxy putty
Sealant applied
Hmmm . . . yep, there ARE poor quality pop rivets . . . they break in the wrong place and jam in the rivet gun.
The main aluminium drip tray sitting in position inside rear quarter of the '51 Coupe.
Water collected by this tray will pass via a short tube and into the copper tube brazed into the sill, then drain onto the roadway.
The curved drip tray will extend over the inner rear mudguard (fender) to catch water from window. A thin rubber sheet glued to the body will direct any water that gets in, into the trays. Hopefully no more rust!
Here are pics relating to the 'drip tray' modification that I've mentioned previously, and provided rough drawings / diagrams for (- see back one page - Post #48).
I'll be placing specially made aluminium drip trays in each rear quarter to catch the water that typically enters the area due to poor design in these 24th (and other?) series Coupe's like my Club Sedan.
The problem was known to Packard and they released a modification kit (post-production) to try and address the problem. For details see section regarding water ingress in the '51-54 Service Manual: Section XIX 'Body' page 24: 'Rear Quarter Water Leaks (Club Sedans)'.
The trays are now made and I checked they can be fitted OK. Won't be fitting them until the car has been painted and schutz /anti-rust coatings etc have been sprayed into the rear quarters as required.
Trays are thin Aluminium sheeting, pop-riveted, and joints have been sealed with SikaFlex 227. I bent the sheet at a friend's place (- he has a brake so it was easy) but you could easily bend it yourself by clamping along a bench edge etc and using a mallet or rubber hammer. These trays are not visible so it's not necessary to do a perfectly neat job with them.
The curved upper tray back was able to be bent in a vice (vise?) - a little at a time to get a smooth curve. See marks made to achieve this.
Pics below show the idea I have for fitting the drain pipe into the trays, using 1/2inch copper pipe and flaring the end so as to secure it into the tray. The hole in the tray will be 'countersunk' as shown, and I'll use a putty like the one shown (- dead easy to use this and it works really well) to secure it although you could use bondo or most other fillers would do the trick.
The pipe will be bent so it feeds into the larger pipe already fitted into the sill.
Not shown is the flexible 'rubber sheet' (- I may use some other thin sheeting instead of rubber-) which will be attached (glued with sealant) to the metal sides above the trays. This sheet will direct the water into the tray instead of letting it run down the sides and then flowing into the rear floor area to create rust.
Ready to assemble
Pop riveted
Sash clamp to compress the tray before riveting
Fixing detail. Sealant will be used to prevent leaks from the trays
Bending method for the curved (upper) tray
Close . . .
Completed
Full unit
Mock-up of pipe fitting
Quiksteel Epoxy putty
Sealant applied
Hmmm . . . yep, there ARE poor quality pop rivets . . . they break in the wrong place and jam in the rivet gun.
The main aluminium drip tray sitting in position inside rear quarter of the '51 Coupe.
Water collected by this tray will pass via a short tube and into the copper tube brazed into the sill, then drain onto the roadway.
The curved drip tray will extend over the inner rear mudguard (fender) to catch water from window. A thin rubber sheet glued to the body will direct any water that gets in, into the trays. Hopefully no more rust!
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