Re: 1940 Super 8 160 Model 1803 Project
Posted by Joe Santana On 2011/5/14 10:19:53
Cool to see that process, Jim. Wow. I want to see your garage. A garage with REAL equipment.
But in the DIY department, the clueless innovate. When I was going through my lifters, that little oil hole has to be absolutely clean for the plunger to go down. I bought my plug gauge from the Pacific NW Region of PI.
Here are the instructions they sent.
"Place the gauge in the lifter body and while holding the valve down on its seat, check the clearance between the valve stem and the gauge using a feeler gauge. The clearance should be more than .030 inch and less than .070 inch. Repeat for each valve. Be sure to see that each piston is at the top of its compression stroke when checking the corresponding valves for clearance.
When installing the hydraulic lift into the tappet, it is advisable to have removed all of the oil from inside the hydraulic unit. Otherwise, the valve may be held open until the excess oil escapes from the lifter. With good tight lifters this could take some time. The lifters will pump back up over a period of time. This can take as much as 20 to 30 minutes to become totally quiet depending on oil pressure."
I realize you said most of that. I think I read in one of the service manuals that it can take an hour for the lifters to pump up.
As a clueless DIYer who was terrified of mismatching plungers after reading all the warnings (i.e. If mismatched, return to factory.), I used a little berry box with a masonite bottom. Turned it upside down and drilled 1/2" holes in it to hold the lifters while I cleaned them one at a time. (It's spent some time in the paint room since, holding smaller items for painting.)The lifters fit in the hole like the gauge does in the small picture.
And to make sure I didn't lose any keepers, I used a couple of sizes of rubber plugs to fill the holes in the block. I know, stone age, but for me, it worked.
Joe
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But in the DIY department, the clueless innovate. When I was going through my lifters, that little oil hole has to be absolutely clean for the plunger to go down. I bought my plug gauge from the Pacific NW Region of PI.
Here are the instructions they sent.
"Place the gauge in the lifter body and while holding the valve down on its seat, check the clearance between the valve stem and the gauge using a feeler gauge. The clearance should be more than .030 inch and less than .070 inch. Repeat for each valve. Be sure to see that each piston is at the top of its compression stroke when checking the corresponding valves for clearance.
When installing the hydraulic lift into the tappet, it is advisable to have removed all of the oil from inside the hydraulic unit. Otherwise, the valve may be held open until the excess oil escapes from the lifter. With good tight lifters this could take some time. The lifters will pump back up over a period of time. This can take as much as 20 to 30 minutes to become totally quiet depending on oil pressure."
I realize you said most of that. I think I read in one of the service manuals that it can take an hour for the lifters to pump up.
As a clueless DIYer who was terrified of mismatching plungers after reading all the warnings (i.e. If mismatched, return to factory.), I used a little berry box with a masonite bottom. Turned it upside down and drilled 1/2" holes in it to hold the lifters while I cleaned them one at a time. (It's spent some time in the paint room since, holding smaller items for painting.)The lifters fit in the hole like the gauge does in the small picture.
And to make sure I didn't lose any keepers, I used a couple of sizes of rubber plugs to fill the holes in the block. I know, stone age, but for me, it worked.
Joe
Attach file:
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