Re: BigKev's 1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Sedan
Posted by BigKev On 2007/5/21 15:36:44
Well will the sub-panel installed in the garage and all the feeds ran for the bench outlets, overhead lights, and the dedicated compressor feed.
With the compressor now able to run without snapping the breaker, I was able to get back in the garage this past weekend to get some work done on the car.
I started by pulling out my Impact Wrench for the first time, and I was finally able to bust loose the bolts holding the front bumper assembly to the frame. With the bumper out of the was it makes it so easy for me to roll my shop chair right up the front of the engine. No more sore back for me.
I then pulled the fan and water pump pully back off so I could clean up and paint the waterpump, timing cover, and crank pulley.
Next tool in the line-up was a die-grinder with a wire bursh. I used it to clean up all the rust and gunk off of the crank pulley. I was happy to see that I can finally read the timing marks. So I cranked the pulley around to TDC, and upon that I discover that my plugs wire were installed (by me) off by one position counter clockwise. All I had to do was move them all one space to the left, and now I have them back where then are supposed to be.
I think the next thing on my list is to pull the distro, for cleaning, and rebuilding where required.
Also I need to fab up some new oil, vacuum and fuel hard lines. The old one are rusty, brittle, and some of them are run incorrectly. For example the oil line to the filter were installed incorrectly. The filter is supposed to be a by-pass arrangement. But the way it is currently plumbed, it is not. (See picture). The lines are supposed to T' at the pressure port, with one side of the T' going to directly back into the inlet on the block above the pressure port, and the other side of the T' feeding the filter, and then back into the pan. As you can see the lines run directly to the filter, and then right back to the oil inlet on the block. Not sure what kind of pressure or flow drop the current setup caused to the upper part of the engine. Any thoughts?
Attach file:
(29.40 KB)
With the compressor now able to run without snapping the breaker, I was able to get back in the garage this past weekend to get some work done on the car.
I started by pulling out my Impact Wrench for the first time, and I was finally able to bust loose the bolts holding the front bumper assembly to the frame. With the bumper out of the was it makes it so easy for me to roll my shop chair right up the front of the engine. No more sore back for me.
I then pulled the fan and water pump pully back off so I could clean up and paint the waterpump, timing cover, and crank pulley.
Next tool in the line-up was a die-grinder with a wire bursh. I used it to clean up all the rust and gunk off of the crank pulley. I was happy to see that I can finally read the timing marks. So I cranked the pulley around to TDC, and upon that I discover that my plugs wire were installed (by me) off by one position counter clockwise. All I had to do was move them all one space to the left, and now I have them back where then are supposed to be.
I think the next thing on my list is to pull the distro, for cleaning, and rebuilding where required.
Also I need to fab up some new oil, vacuum and fuel hard lines. The old one are rusty, brittle, and some of them are run incorrectly. For example the oil line to the filter were installed incorrectly. The filter is supposed to be a by-pass arrangement. But the way it is currently plumbed, it is not. (See picture). The lines are supposed to T' at the pressure port, with one side of the T' going to directly back into the inlet on the block above the pressure port, and the other side of the T' feeding the filter, and then back into the pan. As you can see the lines run directly to the filter, and then right back to the oil inlet on the block. Not sure what kind of pressure or flow drop the current setup caused to the upper part of the engine. Any thoughts?
Attach file:
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