Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan

Posted by Joe Santana On 2021/2/1 11:29:43

1. LOCKOUT CREEP Before I adjusted the cable from the lock-out switch to the OD lever, the cable had a tendency to work its way on its own towards engagement, but never going all the way, as when I push the lock-out knob all the way forward. At about 3/4s of the way forward, it would make a grinding noise. That situation has been partially remedied by a. making the cable length short by screwing in the clevis attached to the OD lever and b. by inserting a section of PVC on the lockout rod to prevent is from moving forward. The PVC as shown in the photo a few posts back has a full length slit that allows me to insert or remove it easily. Without the PVC, the only time the rod wants to move forward is when I use reverse gear. I don't think this issue affects the kick-down functionality. 2. HOW OD USED I almost always starting from a standstill, drive the car in standard gears. All gears work. All have direct-drive/engine-braking. Once on a road clear of bumper-to-bumper traffic and moving at 30mph or faster, I engage the clutch and push the lock-out switch forward with my foot on the accelerator. The red indicator light comes on and I release the accelerator as the OD engages. Then I resume acceleration. If I stop somewhere on my trip, I almost always leave the lock-out knob in, so that after I start the car and start moving, I will be in OD after the governor registers 22 mph via the speedometer pinion attached to the OD. There is no noise after the OD is fully and intentionally engaged. And there is engine braking above 22 mph, but at a higher gear ratio, so it is not very effect engine-braking. 3. DECELERATION Yes, below 22 MPH, slowing down for a stoplight, for instance, the OD disengages but the standard gears are free-wheeling. 4. Since the cable was adjusted, there is no clicking and grinding. The OD disengages below 22mph and goes into free-wheeling. You help os much appreciated, dc, but since everything is working except the kick-down function, I'm inclined to wait until Ross returns. It may be something obvious to his eyes. I could not figure out precisely from the description what parts and set up/connections are needed for the test light tool. I know, duh, but for instance how does a little alligator clip connect to a 6v battery? How do I have alligator clips at both ends and a probe? There are some old test lights for sale sans battery. Are there modern ones that work for 6v? I'm sure Ross will have one, and if you were here you could show me, dense as I am when it comes to this. I printed out the training manual. I'll study those sections you ref'ed.