Re: The Duchess Project: 1940 Super 8 Convertible Sedan
Posted by Joe Santana On 2011/6/19 9:21:47
Progress on a few fronts.
WINDOWS: The question about the rubber dust seal on the side windows is answered. Steele Rubber's Side Window Weatherstrip 70-0241-57 double lip weatherseal is used for 1/4" glass in the metal bottom channel carrier. MS Glass, a couple doors away from the Beaverton Auto Upholstery, will install it. I missed it because their is already such a variety of window channel (convt top frame rails have one type, front of the front side window another, and one that slips inside the stainless window frames) in a convertible sedan I thought I had them all.
The 1940 FRONT WINDOW MECHANISM regulator scissor action was also solved, in theory at least, with a plastic bushing and nylon washer. More on the thread for that topic.
WINDSHIELD: MS Glass will also install the windshield at the upholstery shop while the Duchess is in there this week. It has new rubber and rechromed trim. They are saying they need the windshield moulding, so I am attempting to finish the paint and wood grain on that this weekend.
INTERIOR DOOR MOULDING: These have been stripped, primed with direct to metal primer, sanded, filled, sanded, and primed again last night. They will be sanded with 400 this morning and sprayed with Dupont Colorbase and Colorbase maker, 1 to 1. Sanded again and painted again. Then I get to try woodgraining on the straight strips. It looks so easy in the video! We'll see.
RUNNING BOARD TOP MOULDING AND SIDE MOULDING. The SIDE moulding pieces from Packard Motor Car Co were shipped in plastic pipe and wrapped in clear plastic. I haven't unwrapped them yet.
I was missing one of the TOP moulding strips, but of course, you can't buy what you need, or just the CLIPS from Steele. Thankful that they make it, but policy like that says something culturally about who they cater to, and I'm just a guy who wants to get my old family car restored and, unfortunately, I'm not filthy rich. But one finds a way. Jim, fellow 1803 1377 owner, was missing one side and had to bite the bullet and buy the complete set for $700 new and sold left overs to his long, long time friend Dan and I bought Dan's left overs. I've been cleaning those up and stainless steel is great that way. I only needed the 11" piece so I have a bunch left over and will sell for $10 a foot, no minimum in protest, plus shipping. Clean ones in photo are below the Mason-Dixon Line.
The side moulding CLIPS, not being able to buy those without shelling out $700, is a problem. I have most of my original ones, but with new rubber, Jim's suggestion and Vaughn's too was to do what they did, grind the heads of a hundred small machine screws until they slip into the moulding retainer lips. I'm going to try something similar. 50# nails threaded 4-40, washers and nuts. The reason for screws in either case is to help hold down the new rubber matting.
Son John replaced the broken bolt on the running board by slitting the retainer, peeling it back, removing the broken bolt, grinding the head of the new bolt and tacking it, then closing and welding the retainer up. Jim suggested sanding the back side of the matting before we apply it to help it adhere. The running board is full of holes. I'm not sure we can get things lined up exactly as they were. I held back one board to use as a visual guide for placing the new matting. I'm thinking we would just drill more holes after it's on for replacing the top moulding strips.
NOTES ON MY WINDSHIELD: I'm sure it's happened to you. It did to me for years. If you're interested in selling this portable junk yard, let me know. I saved several. I was looking through my files and found this one left on my car in 1960-something when I was attending the University of San Francisco. Just for the heck of it I googled this name, picturing that only a little old lady could have a name like that, and would long gone by now. Lo, a very interesting life story unfolded online, of Japanese internment camps and real estate success with her husband in Utah, and yes, schooling in San Francisco. I sent off an email. More later.
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WINDOWS: The question about the rubber dust seal on the side windows is answered. Steele Rubber's Side Window Weatherstrip 70-0241-57 double lip weatherseal is used for 1/4" glass in the metal bottom channel carrier. MS Glass, a couple doors away from the Beaverton Auto Upholstery, will install it. I missed it because their is already such a variety of window channel (convt top frame rails have one type, front of the front side window another, and one that slips inside the stainless window frames) in a convertible sedan I thought I had them all.
The 1940 FRONT WINDOW MECHANISM regulator scissor action was also solved, in theory at least, with a plastic bushing and nylon washer. More on the thread for that topic.
WINDSHIELD: MS Glass will also install the windshield at the upholstery shop while the Duchess is in there this week. It has new rubber and rechromed trim. They are saying they need the windshield moulding, so I am attempting to finish the paint and wood grain on that this weekend.
INTERIOR DOOR MOULDING: These have been stripped, primed with direct to metal primer, sanded, filled, sanded, and primed again last night. They will be sanded with 400 this morning and sprayed with Dupont Colorbase and Colorbase maker, 1 to 1. Sanded again and painted again. Then I get to try woodgraining on the straight strips. It looks so easy in the video! We'll see.
RUNNING BOARD TOP MOULDING AND SIDE MOULDING. The SIDE moulding pieces from Packard Motor Car Co were shipped in plastic pipe and wrapped in clear plastic. I haven't unwrapped them yet.
I was missing one of the TOP moulding strips, but of course, you can't buy what you need, or just the CLIPS from Steele. Thankful that they make it, but policy like that says something culturally about who they cater to, and I'm just a guy who wants to get my old family car restored and, unfortunately, I'm not filthy rich. But one finds a way. Jim, fellow 1803 1377 owner, was missing one side and had to bite the bullet and buy the complete set for $700 new and sold left overs to his long, long time friend Dan and I bought Dan's left overs. I've been cleaning those up and stainless steel is great that way. I only needed the 11" piece so I have a bunch left over and will sell for $10 a foot, no minimum in protest, plus shipping. Clean ones in photo are below the Mason-Dixon Line.
The side moulding CLIPS, not being able to buy those without shelling out $700, is a problem. I have most of my original ones, but with new rubber, Jim's suggestion and Vaughn's too was to do what they did, grind the heads of a hundred small machine screws until they slip into the moulding retainer lips. I'm going to try something similar. 50# nails threaded 4-40, washers and nuts. The reason for screws in either case is to help hold down the new rubber matting.
Son John replaced the broken bolt on the running board by slitting the retainer, peeling it back, removing the broken bolt, grinding the head of the new bolt and tacking it, then closing and welding the retainer up. Jim suggested sanding the back side of the matting before we apply it to help it adhere. The running board is full of holes. I'm not sure we can get things lined up exactly as they were. I held back one board to use as a visual guide for placing the new matting. I'm thinking we would just drill more holes after it's on for replacing the top moulding strips.
NOTES ON MY WINDSHIELD: I'm sure it's happened to you. It did to me for years. If you're interested in selling this portable junk yard, let me know. I saved several. I was looking through my files and found this one left on my car in 1960-something when I was attending the University of San Francisco. Just for the heck of it I googled this name, picturing that only a little old lady could have a name like that, and would long gone by now. Lo, a very interesting life story unfolded online, of Japanese internment camps and real estate success with her husband in Utah, and yes, schooling in San Francisco. I sent off an email. More later.
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