Re: Ken's 1937 115C Touring Sedan
Posted by Ken_P On 2014/9/23 19:44:09
It has been a while since I've posted.
Hauled the car from Idaho to Saratoga Springs, NY.
I've gotten the front end off, and started stripping down the car. I want to get the mechanical stuff 100%, and then I'll move into body work.
The car smoked quite a bit, so I pulled the head for an inspection. Compression numbers were good a few years ago, but I want the car to not smoke, and now is the right time to go through it. I am planning on doing an in-car overhaul. There is a crack between 5 and 6 on the drivers side of the block, so I don't want to put money into machine work, thus not planning a full rebuild. My plan:
0. Epoxy repair the crack. I am thinking JB weld. It leaks cold, no leaks hot.
1. New rings
2. Inspect bearings and replace if required
3. Clean pistons and valves
4. Valve grind. I think I can do it myself, in car, based on some posts I read on the forum.
4.5. Inspect valve guides to see if a worn valve guide is the cause of my smoke. I don't have enough run hours to reasonably discuss oil level changes.
5. New timing chain?
Is there a way to tell if the pistons are stock other than measuring? They appear to be stamped 9 3 on top, but it's hard to tell, since I haven't cleaned them off yet.
Open to suggestions or better ideas from people who have done this before. I haven't done a full restoration before.
I also found a new crack in the exhaust manifold. I had a previous crack welded up, and it is now cracked next to the old crack. Should I look for a new manifold, or do they all crack there? My concern is that the engine only has a few hours of run time since the manifold was repaired before. I am also going to have to find different manifold paint. I put several coats of Hirsch paint on it 3 years ago, and you can see in the pictures how poorly the paint fared. How do the pros do it?
Once all of that is done, I'll restore all the ancillary parts as I reassemble- distributor, generator, water pump, etc. The water pump leaked slightly, so I will rebuild it. The starter is done, but I may touch it up.
I also need to repaint the block. I hate rework. You can see in the pictures where the paint peeled off. I've never had anti-freeze eat paint. For prep, I wire wheeled the engine to bare metal, degreased it, and painted it. Does the Hirsch engine paint need a primer? It didn't mention that on the can or in the instructions.
Then I have to fix leaking brakes. The brand new three years ago master cylinder leaks like a sieve, so I guess I will have to rebuild it. A few of my new brake lines are leaking too. The flares looked fine, and the wheel cylinders are new. I am wondering if I just didn't tighten them enough to crush a little between the flared line and the fitting. I was afraid of over-tightening, but I'm wondering if I limp-wristed it. Thoughts?
Much work, but it's fun. I will probably be a little less excited when it is February in my uninsulated garage!
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Hauled the car from Idaho to Saratoga Springs, NY.
I've gotten the front end off, and started stripping down the car. I want to get the mechanical stuff 100%, and then I'll move into body work.
The car smoked quite a bit, so I pulled the head for an inspection. Compression numbers were good a few years ago, but I want the car to not smoke, and now is the right time to go through it. I am planning on doing an in-car overhaul. There is a crack between 5 and 6 on the drivers side of the block, so I don't want to put money into machine work, thus not planning a full rebuild. My plan:
0. Epoxy repair the crack. I am thinking JB weld. It leaks cold, no leaks hot.
1. New rings
2. Inspect bearings and replace if required
3. Clean pistons and valves
4. Valve grind. I think I can do it myself, in car, based on some posts I read on the forum.
4.5. Inspect valve guides to see if a worn valve guide is the cause of my smoke. I don't have enough run hours to reasonably discuss oil level changes.
5. New timing chain?
Is there a way to tell if the pistons are stock other than measuring? They appear to be stamped 9 3 on top, but it's hard to tell, since I haven't cleaned them off yet.
Open to suggestions or better ideas from people who have done this before. I haven't done a full restoration before.
I also found a new crack in the exhaust manifold. I had a previous crack welded up, and it is now cracked next to the old crack. Should I look for a new manifold, or do they all crack there? My concern is that the engine only has a few hours of run time since the manifold was repaired before. I am also going to have to find different manifold paint. I put several coats of Hirsch paint on it 3 years ago, and you can see in the pictures how poorly the paint fared. How do the pros do it?
Once all of that is done, I'll restore all the ancillary parts as I reassemble- distributor, generator, water pump, etc. The water pump leaked slightly, so I will rebuild it. The starter is done, but I may touch it up.
I also need to repaint the block. I hate rework. You can see in the pictures where the paint peeled off. I've never had anti-freeze eat paint. For prep, I wire wheeled the engine to bare metal, degreased it, and painted it. Does the Hirsch engine paint need a primer? It didn't mention that on the can or in the instructions.
Then I have to fix leaking brakes. The brand new three years ago master cylinder leaks like a sieve, so I guess I will have to rebuild it. A few of my new brake lines are leaking too. The flares looked fine, and the wheel cylinders are new. I am wondering if I just didn't tighten them enough to crush a little between the flared line and the fitting. I was afraid of over-tightening, but I'm wondering if I limp-wristed it. Thoughts?
Much work, but it's fun. I will probably be a little less excited when it is February in my uninsulated garage!
Attach file:
(54.04 KB)
(72.28 KB)
(79.52 KB)
(81.13 KB)
(78.22 KB)
(73.46 KB)
(91.54 KB)
(64.33 KB)
(72.64 KB)
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