Re: Ken's 1937 115C Touring Sedan

Posted by Ken_P On 2015/7/4 17:42:33

An update, as it has been some time since I posted. I got the crank ground and fit 0.010 under bearings on the main and rod journals. Because I had to go to that length, I also fit new 3.5" pistons, had the block bored, and new cam bearings installed. My machinist fit the wrist pins, bushings and assembled the piston and rod assemblies. I also had the connecting rod journals on the crank end renewed- they were egged out, so I had them reconditioned also.

I'm well into the re-assembly phase now. Cam and crank are installed, valve train installed again. I had .002 on #1, 3, and 4 mains and 0.0015 on #2. I installed the timing chain, only to remember that the motor mount plate needed to go on first, so the chain came off and then back on. Unlike one of the other posters, no issues with size!

I gapped all of the piston rings (all came in at 0.017, per spec), and then installed the rings. Side clearance is good too, which is expected for new pistons. Put the first piston in, checked the clearance- 0.001, perfect, and went to re-torque the connecting rod bolts. My machinist spec-ed out 55 to 60 ft-lbs for those bolts. I didn't go back and check the Engine Manual here. I just did, and it specifies 45-46 ft-lb.

The bad news- I stripped out a connecting rod stud, so I'll have to source a nut breaker and remove the stud. I think I have a spare somewhere in the parts from my spare engine block, but if not, I'll be looking for one here.

What is the chance that I ruined the bearing by over crushing? I would think it would be pretty low, but this is the first time I've done this, so I thought I would ask a few more experienced people.

The good news- I won't screw up the other five pistons now. It is good to see the engine going back together.