Re: Ken's 1937 115C Touring Sedan
Posted by Ken_P On 2015/8/13 21:14:35
Engine is painted, bellhousing, flywheel and clutch installed, and engine in frame! A few notes:
Install the ball for the clutch fork to mount on before you put the clutch in! You can do it in the opposite order, but it is a lot harder.
I used the old trick with a socket and grease to push out the pilot bearing - worked great! If unfamiliar with what I'm talking about - fill the cavity with grease, take a socket whose outside diameter is very close to the ID of the pilot bearing, fill said socket with grease, add an extension, and then sharply rap it with a hammer. The grease acts to transfer the pressure hydraulically and slide the bearing out. I put a wrap of electrical tape outside the socket to reduce the clearance. I would recommend starting out with a deep well socket so you don't push it behind the bearing as it starts to come out.
Use an arbor press (or the clutch pedal before you take the clutch out) to depress the clutch fingers. Block the fingers with a small piece of wood. Because of the fact that the bell housing goes on before the clutch, you cannot easily pull the clutch down with the bolts like you would on a later model car. I read about this in the owners manual before I pulled the clutch, but I had the clutch rebuilt, so I wasn't able to really apply the knowledge.
I wish I would have pre-bent the tabs for the flywheel bolt locking tabs. I was able to get them all bent up, but it would have been much easier if I had pre-bent the corners.
I put the engine in with a cherry-picker. Almost was able to do it by myself, but I had to have my wife come push the engine hoist around a little bit while I was lining up the engine with the transmission input shaft.
Attach file:
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Install the ball for the clutch fork to mount on before you put the clutch in! You can do it in the opposite order, but it is a lot harder.
I used the old trick with a socket and grease to push out the pilot bearing - worked great! If unfamiliar with what I'm talking about - fill the cavity with grease, take a socket whose outside diameter is very close to the ID of the pilot bearing, fill said socket with grease, add an extension, and then sharply rap it with a hammer. The grease acts to transfer the pressure hydraulically and slide the bearing out. I put a wrap of electrical tape outside the socket to reduce the clearance. I would recommend starting out with a deep well socket so you don't push it behind the bearing as it starts to come out.
Use an arbor press (or the clutch pedal before you take the clutch out) to depress the clutch fingers. Block the fingers with a small piece of wood. Because of the fact that the bell housing goes on before the clutch, you cannot easily pull the clutch down with the bolts like you would on a later model car. I read about this in the owners manual before I pulled the clutch, but I had the clutch rebuilt, so I wasn't able to really apply the knowledge.
I wish I would have pre-bent the tabs for the flywheel bolt locking tabs. I was able to get them all bent up, but it would have been much easier if I had pre-bent the corners.
I put the engine in with a cherry-picker. Almost was able to do it by myself, but I had to have my wife come push the engine hoist around a little bit while I was lining up the engine with the transmission input shaft.
Attach file:
(57.56 KB)
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