Re: 1948 Super Eight Resurrection
Posted by Joseph Earl On 2012/3/4 0:56:20
Well, the rebuild was pretty straightforward. After ordering the kit from Mike's Carburetor Parts in Rochester, WA, I spent about 45-60 minutes disassembling and photographing the process. Be sure to make notes too. I counted the turns on the idle air adjustment screws before removal, and noted the jet size numbers for each barrel- they were the same in each barrel on this Carter WD-O, so it didn't matter.
It's a good idea to get the kit first so you can examine the parts in the kit before you tear into the carb- that way you will know which parts you have to replace and to note the parts you have to be careful to save for re-use. Have a good look at the schematic diagram too.
I used the carb cleaner that comes in a gallon can with the basket included. You may have to do larger parts separately. Give them a good soak- the time will depend on the amount of gunk present. You may have to do some more than once. Get a used toothbrush ready, wear nitrile gloves and have compressed air available for the drying process. Soak, brush, and rinse with a strong spray of water. Blow all passages completely dry. Be careful not to lose any small parts down the drain when you rinse. If you re-soak any parts, be sure you get ALL of the water out or you will ruin your parts cleaner as water neutralizes the solution. Don't forget to dry the basket too before re-use.
After everything is clean, I lay out all of the parts on a clean white surface, and group them according to where they go. Good organization always helps.
I had to trim a couple of places on the gaskets to get them to fit. Nothing major. The only problem I encountered was with the reassembly of the throttle body to the main float casting- I simply neglected to examine the gasket first. It wouldn't go together tightly, and after looking again I noted the old gasket was two stapled together. The ones in the kit were separate, and once I put both gaskets together, it went together fine.
Make note of all assembly screw lengths so you will have the proper ones in the correct locations. I wire brushed the rust off the heads of mine for a cleaner appearance.
That's about all i can remember for now. I hope this helps!
Attach file:
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It's a good idea to get the kit first so you can examine the parts in the kit before you tear into the carb- that way you will know which parts you have to replace and to note the parts you have to be careful to save for re-use. Have a good look at the schematic diagram too.
I used the carb cleaner that comes in a gallon can with the basket included. You may have to do larger parts separately. Give them a good soak- the time will depend on the amount of gunk present. You may have to do some more than once. Get a used toothbrush ready, wear nitrile gloves and have compressed air available for the drying process. Soak, brush, and rinse with a strong spray of water. Blow all passages completely dry. Be careful not to lose any small parts down the drain when you rinse. If you re-soak any parts, be sure you get ALL of the water out or you will ruin your parts cleaner as water neutralizes the solution. Don't forget to dry the basket too before re-use.
After everything is clean, I lay out all of the parts on a clean white surface, and group them according to where they go. Good organization always helps.
I had to trim a couple of places on the gaskets to get them to fit. Nothing major. The only problem I encountered was with the reassembly of the throttle body to the main float casting- I simply neglected to examine the gasket first. It wouldn't go together tightly, and after looking again I noted the old gasket was two stapled together. The ones in the kit were separate, and once I put both gaskets together, it went together fine.
Make note of all assembly screw lengths so you will have the proper ones in the correct locations. I wire brushed the rust off the heads of mine for a cleaner appearance.
That's about all i can remember for now. I hope this helps!
Attach file:
(30.13 KB)
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