Re: 55-56 oil pump

Posted by Jack Vines On 2014/3/24 15:25:44
Riki is always outside the box and that's how we progress. Only way to know for sure how his modification will work is put it in service and run it to failure and compare the lifespan with the OEM control.

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The OEM coupling acts as a universal joint by DELIBERATE AND NECESSARY DESIGN!!!!Eleminating the u-joint effect as u have done will most likely cause a binding and or make instalation of the pump to the engine impossible.

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I suspect that elimination of the coupling effect may be a mistake. Problems with installation may not be the only issue, the coupling is there no doubt to accommodate any stackup of machining tolerances and without it I'd be concerned about rapid wear somewhere


Somewhat agreeing with Keith and Owen, OEM engineers seldom design in extra pieces, extra machining, extra assembly. If it's there, there's usually a reason.

Bit of history. The Kettering Gen I OHV8s, Cad, Olds, Stude, Packard and Gen II Chevrolet all used tang drive oil pumps.

When the Gen III V8s come along, '58 Ford FE and Mopar, '64 Olds, '74 Cad, they all used hex shaft drive oil pumps. That the tang drive was abandoned might suggest it wasn't the best or most economical.

Since the Mopar has the drive gear on the intermediate shaft instead of on the distributor shaft, there is a bronze bushing in the block to support the intermediate shaft. On the Packard V8 currently under construction, I'm investigating if such a bronze bushing might be of any benefit at the top of the Packard intermediate shaft.

FWIW, I bought a pallet of miscellaneous Packard V8 parts from a well-known Chicago shop. In there was a box of oil pump parts. By reverse engineering, I discerned how he had been remanufacturing the Packard V8 oil pumps.

He was buying the then-available Cadillac oil pump rebuild kits from Melling. The gears are identical to the Packard, but the shafts are .005" larger diameter and shorter. He would bore out the Packard pump driveshaft hole, press in a bronze bushing, make a Packard shaft .005" larger, bore out the idler shaft hole .005", press everything together.

The only way I'd do it differently is use a longer bronze bushing or an iron bushing. There are several Melling kits still NIB, but since most want the Olds conversion, I doubt I'll do any more Packard pumps. However, if one wants to keep his vacuum pump and have the best Packard pump possible, PM me and we'll discuss.

If I did these again, I'd investigate how to broach a shaft for a female hex so I could use the same style shaft I make for the Olds conversion.

jack vines

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