Re: Power Window Modern Conversion
Posted by Craig Hendrickson On 2014/6/10 15:28:59
(continued from post 4)
Next one must position the track and motor so that the lift bar and track is centered on the window glass. Conveniently, the forward most lip of the rearmost access hole in the front door can be used for one side of the mounting bracket in the correct position. Drill a couple of mounting holes along the lip at the positions shown in the picture. A "measure twice and drill once" procedure should be used to assure that the window glass both goes all the way up and down. I didn't get it exactly right the first time, but I just ended up with a couple of extra holes (see picture). In addition, I had to use another wood shim between the inner door metal and the motor mount to get the track exactly lined up vertically with the window frame rails (see picture). The top of the track also required shimming (see pic of spare slightly larger nut which acted as a shim). Because of this shimming, I went to the local Home Depot and bought 6 ea longer 6MM hex bolts (3 each door, see pic) to account for the shim width..
For the other side of the motor mount, I used some "metal plumber's tape" which conveniently bridges the hole in the rearmost access hole on the inner door panel. This is a straight forward fitment (see pic) of measuring and drilling. I had to supply the bolts/nuts/lock washers to attach the "metal plumber's tape" to the inner door metal, but used the hardware supplied in the kit for the motor mount frame.
The Autoloc track and motor frame are now permanently attached and there is no binding or misalignment. Using the same bench test voltage supply, the Autoloc Bosch motor causes the window glass to go up and down smoothly in it's guide tracks.
(see next post)
Next one must position the track and motor so that the lift bar and track is centered on the window glass. Conveniently, the forward most lip of the rearmost access hole in the front door can be used for one side of the mounting bracket in the correct position. Drill a couple of mounting holes along the lip at the positions shown in the picture. A "measure twice and drill once" procedure should be used to assure that the window glass both goes all the way up and down. I didn't get it exactly right the first time, but I just ended up with a couple of extra holes (see picture). In addition, I had to use another wood shim between the inner door metal and the motor mount to get the track exactly lined up vertically with the window frame rails (see picture). The top of the track also required shimming (see pic of spare slightly larger nut which acted as a shim). Because of this shimming, I went to the local Home Depot and bought 6 ea longer 6MM hex bolts (3 each door, see pic) to account for the shim width..
For the other side of the motor mount, I used some "metal plumber's tape" which conveniently bridges the hole in the rearmost access hole on the inner door panel. This is a straight forward fitment (see pic) of measuring and drilling. I had to supply the bolts/nuts/lock washers to attach the "metal plumber's tape" to the inner door metal, but used the hardware supplied in the kit for the motor mount frame.
The Autoloc track and motor frame are now permanently attached and there is no binding or misalignment. Using the same bench test voltage supply, the Autoloc Bosch motor causes the window glass to go up and down smoothly in it's guide tracks.
(see next post)
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