Re: Bad OD Solenoid?
Posted by HH56 On 2013/5/11 18:05:05
Here is a pictoral layout schematic of the 53 R11. The components are shown as they are on the car which makes it fairly easy to trace the wiring and see where everything goes.
In your case voltage is applied to the relay in two places. From the battery to the fuse in front which does nothing until the relay is energized. To energize the relay you need voltage from ign switch to the dual side post end on the terminal toward the firewall. The ground comes from the governor thru the lockout switch and kickdown switch to the single post on the other side of relay. Once you have those conditions met the relay will energize. Standing still without the governor working you can ground the single end terminal and if ign switch is providing voltage the relay should pull in. The battery voltage from fuse is passed to the solenoid via the dual side terminal end front terminal and to the terminal (4) toward the outside end of the solenoid case. If the solenoid is connected it should clunk when you ground the relay. Typically there are some terminal numbers stamped on the case near the terminal. Clean the dirt and grease and carefully look. Same with relays. Usually stamped on the tab. Not 100% sure on later solenoids but older R11s had a 4 near one and 6 near the other. 4 is coils, 6 is ign cutout contact.
The solenoid should read O ohms from the end terminal 4 to ground. There are two coils inside -hold and pullin. The hold coil will read continuity all the time so will be hard to test using a meter unless that coil is open. The other pullin coil will open when the plunger is almost all the way out and a contact inside disconnects it. If that coil or contact is already open solenoid might test good because of the hold coil but solenoid will never pull in. To test the solenoid you need a heavy gauge wire to that end terminal and another to the case. Ordinary light gauge test wires will not carry enough current to let the solenoid pull in.
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In your case voltage is applied to the relay in two places. From the battery to the fuse in front which does nothing until the relay is energized. To energize the relay you need voltage from ign switch to the dual side post end on the terminal toward the firewall. The ground comes from the governor thru the lockout switch and kickdown switch to the single post on the other side of relay. Once you have those conditions met the relay will energize. Standing still without the governor working you can ground the single end terminal and if ign switch is providing voltage the relay should pull in. The battery voltage from fuse is passed to the solenoid via the dual side terminal end front terminal and to the terminal (4) toward the outside end of the solenoid case. If the solenoid is connected it should clunk when you ground the relay. Typically there are some terminal numbers stamped on the case near the terminal. Clean the dirt and grease and carefully look. Same with relays. Usually stamped on the tab. Not 100% sure on later solenoids but older R11s had a 4 near one and 6 near the other. 4 is coils, 6 is ign cutout contact.
The solenoid should read O ohms from the end terminal 4 to ground. There are two coils inside -hold and pullin. The hold coil will read continuity all the time so will be hard to test using a meter unless that coil is open. The other pullin coil will open when the plunger is almost all the way out and a contact inside disconnects it. If that coil or contact is already open solenoid might test good because of the hold coil but solenoid will never pull in. To test the solenoid you need a heavy gauge wire to that end terminal and another to the case. Ordinary light gauge test wires will not carry enough current to let the solenoid pull in.
Attach file:
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