Re: 20-21st trunk lid molding
Posted by HH56 On 2013/12/24 13:01:10
To others wanting to remove their molding, right or wrong I have removed both moldings on my 47. I'm sure the factory wouldn't approve either method but since they didn't share their instructions, here goes with what I did.
Since I had removed the rivet on one piece yesterday, started that side by grinding the remaining rivets off. While it worked, unless you want to remove the retainer completely that is not the answer. If you do need to remove the retainer then it is the only option. Replacing the retainer is not a big deal using 8-32 x 1/8 steel binding posts. Those fit perfectly (with a tiny bit of cleanup with a #7 drillbit) back in the original rivet holes. Heads on the binding post screws are wide and flat so weatherstrip will lay over as per the original rivets and screws are not long enough to touch the molding. Just have a magnetic screwdriver to hold the screws while you start them and it's a good idea to glue or doublestick tape the mating side in the retainer. If you do neither, the vocabulary is liable to be exercised every time you drop one of the screws or receivers.
After it was removed and was able to carefully examined the parts, I figured a way to remove the molding without removing the retainer. If you look at the retainer and molding photo, the molding has a wider lip on the bottom. What I did was use a block of wood on the bottom of molding to drive the molding up as high on the retainer as I could. Once up, used a pry tool (I used a tack remover) to slip under the top of molding and start prying away from retainer at one end. Use a cardboard or piece of plastic under the tool to protect the paint. Once the molding is started and is slightly away from the retainer at the end, slip a piece of thin shim stock (I used .005) in as far as possible to prevent the molding from slipping back down over the retainer. With a piece of wood and occasional use of the pry tool GENTLY tap the molding down and work the wood and shim stock down the length of the molding. I repeat GENTLY because you can distort the molding easily . It will take finesse and possibly vocabulary but once the molding starts releasing a bit it becomes easier.
Attach file:
(11.30 KB)
(10.04 KB)
(11.50 KB)
(15.08 KB)
(10.73 KB)
(14.08 KB)
(13.13 KB)
(10.28 KB)
Since I had removed the rivet on one piece yesterday, started that side by grinding the remaining rivets off. While it worked, unless you want to remove the retainer completely that is not the answer. If you do need to remove the retainer then it is the only option. Replacing the retainer is not a big deal using 8-32 x 1/8 steel binding posts. Those fit perfectly (with a tiny bit of cleanup with a #7 drillbit) back in the original rivet holes. Heads on the binding post screws are wide and flat so weatherstrip will lay over as per the original rivets and screws are not long enough to touch the molding. Just have a magnetic screwdriver to hold the screws while you start them and it's a good idea to glue or doublestick tape the mating side in the retainer. If you do neither, the vocabulary is liable to be exercised every time you drop one of the screws or receivers.
After it was removed and was able to carefully examined the parts, I figured a way to remove the molding without removing the retainer. If you look at the retainer and molding photo, the molding has a wider lip on the bottom. What I did was use a block of wood on the bottom of molding to drive the molding up as high on the retainer as I could. Once up, used a pry tool (I used a tack remover) to slip under the top of molding and start prying away from retainer at one end. Use a cardboard or piece of plastic under the tool to protect the paint. Once the molding is started and is slightly away from the retainer at the end, slip a piece of thin shim stock (I used .005) in as far as possible to prevent the molding from slipping back down over the retainer. With a piece of wood and occasional use of the pry tool GENTLY tap the molding down and work the wood and shim stock down the length of the molding. I repeat GENTLY because you can distort the molding easily . It will take finesse and possibly vocabulary but once the molding starts releasing a bit it becomes easier.
Attach file:
(11.30 KB)
(10.04 KB)
(11.50 KB)
(15.08 KB) (10.73 KB)
(14.08 KB)
(13.13 KB)
(10.28 KB)
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