Re: Brake drum removal 1948 22nd Series

Posted by Fish'n Jim On 2014/7/11 20:59:47

I still don't think the extra "tightness" to "press" the taper is warranted nor necessary. Especially if done "dry". If you torque to dry specs wet(inadvertently), you're way over. I'd bet this procedure was done frequently back in the day without the benefit of a torque wrench and maybe even a cheater or large monkey wrench was used. The nut is pinned, so it's not going to come off. Each application of that kind of torque stretches/deforms the threads. If hub nut has been on tight enough to fatigue crack the axle threads to the point of causing break off or stick the hub ad infinitum, it's simply too "tight"... (another problem of "outboards" the external threads rust.) The brake linings can also still be holding, also, on some of these that have set for long periods and the cylinder froze/rusted. So checking / detaching that should be done before attempting removal.
There's little to no rotational "friction" on the taper if the key is acting because there's little relative movement. The joint can only move if it's too loose(sloppy) which means it wasn't installed properly. Without studying the dynamics / harmonics, it's difficult to predict, if there's any other detrimental movements. I do not think that was well known at the time of this design.
A smear of antisieze lube will fill the taper voids and prevent the sticking. I would not recommend to use a water based product like milk of magnesia.
The wheel loads transferred to the axle and vice versa are applied over the entire hub contact area, so taper helps with stress distribution and the smooth diameter transition prevents stress concentration which can lead to fatigue cracks. A taper is easy to machine, centers the wheel, destresses, and that's why it's commonly used.
I'm not going to reuse this style rear end, so I won't have to worry about this again.