Re: Brake drum removal 1948 22nd Series

Posted by jfrom@kanter On 2014/7/12 6:47:17

no matter how many opinions say it is something else

1. Galling-This only happens if the shaft and the hub move relative to each other, if movement is occurring then the joint is in failure mode due to improper or loose) installation..There should be absolutely no movement between shaft and hub Wheel bearings either tapered or roller that gall have either no lube or are adjusted too tight.

2. Tapered shafts/hubs are designed to be installed DRY. No service manual whether Chrysler, Jeep , Packard or other recommends anythng be used. The problem encountered is that they are difficult to remove, Loctite or similar will create a film which will keep the axle/hub from being in 100% contact thus disturbing full contact. Anything that makes it easier to remove will decrease the integrity of the joint. It is the taper acting as a wedge combined by high torque on the nut that allows the coupling to transmit power, see an engineering manual

3. Lubricant of any kind on the shaft or nut will give a false torque reading.

4. Rust is not what is holding the joint together, the mating parts are finely machined to mate perfectly, the only place of water entry is beneath the nut and beneath that is a keyed leather washer.



5. If you install a drum, torque it and remove it, then the removal is painless. If installed for 40 years there is a bit of "creep" due to the taper and high torque and heating/cooling and the drum moves up the taper ever so slightly. The ever so slightly is what makes it impossible.

6. There was a day when virtually all automobile used taperred shafts, but they didn't sit for 50 years without being removed.

6. The secret is pesistence with a heavy duty puller and a moderate amount of swearing.