Re: 1954 Patty valve job
Posted by Owen_Dyneto On 2015/2/8 11:56:47
First of all, if you've not done valve jobs on similar engines before, I very strongly suggest you find someone locally who has that experience to guide you thru the process!! I've done more valve jobs on Packard in-line engines than I care to remember and would be glad to give further advice but it's tedious this way, if you want to chat about it by phone PM me with your phone# and a good time to call.
Measure the installed depth of the guide from the top of the deck to the highest point on the guide (remember, they are NOT perpendicular to the deck), accuracy with a simple depth measure (the one on the left in the photo) is typically quite adequate and with valve stems without a wear step, a small difference is not a problem.
If you're in doubt about the current angle of the seat, install the pilot from a power valve grind set and just hand-turn the proper angle stone over the existing seat - full contact indicates the angle matches that of the stone.
For many years I sold the tappet reserve take-up gauge and then more recently I've simply loaned them to folks; unfortunately most of these folks never returned them so I no longer loan them. But I believe P.N.R, sells them, and also Rob (or is in Ron?) Carpenter used to offer them. Make sure you get the one for the 327/359 engines, the one for the 356 engine is quite different.
After you remove and examine the valves, take them to a good automotive machine shop for refacing, they will help you determine which can be refaced and which should be replaced. Borrow a power valve-seat refacer, almost certainly someone in your area who has grease under the fingernails has one or knows someone who does. Picture of mine enclosed. You'll need a good valve spring compressor, picture of my preferred type also enclosed. There are special tools for installing the keepers but I've found they are more trouble than they are worth, just a dab of grease on the keepers will hold them in place while the spring and retainer is dropped. If you need to change any guides, a good guide driving drift will be essential (pictures of some also enclosed).
Lastly, before you start to compress the springs to remove the keepers, plug the oil return holes to the crankcase with corks or similar; otherwise you'll be very unhappy when one of keepers pops off and falls thru the hole into the oil pan.
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Measure the installed depth of the guide from the top of the deck to the highest point on the guide (remember, they are NOT perpendicular to the deck), accuracy with a simple depth measure (the one on the left in the photo) is typically quite adequate and with valve stems without a wear step, a small difference is not a problem.
If you're in doubt about the current angle of the seat, install the pilot from a power valve grind set and just hand-turn the proper angle stone over the existing seat - full contact indicates the angle matches that of the stone.
For many years I sold the tappet reserve take-up gauge and then more recently I've simply loaned them to folks; unfortunately most of these folks never returned them so I no longer loan them. But I believe P.N.R, sells them, and also Rob (or is in Ron?) Carpenter used to offer them. Make sure you get the one for the 327/359 engines, the one for the 356 engine is quite different.
After you remove and examine the valves, take them to a good automotive machine shop for refacing, they will help you determine which can be refaced and which should be replaced. Borrow a power valve-seat refacer, almost certainly someone in your area who has grease under the fingernails has one or knows someone who does. Picture of mine enclosed. You'll need a good valve spring compressor, picture of my preferred type also enclosed. There are special tools for installing the keepers but I've found they are more trouble than they are worth, just a dab of grease on the keepers will hold them in place while the spring and retainer is dropped. If you need to change any guides, a good guide driving drift will be essential (pictures of some also enclosed).
Lastly, before you start to compress the springs to remove the keepers, plug the oil return holes to the crankcase with corks or similar; otherwise you'll be very unhappy when one of keepers pops off and falls thru the hole into the oil pan.
Attach file:
(90.28 KB)
(92.04 KB)
(104.70 KB)
(144.64 KB)
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