Re: 21st series R9 overdrive kick down switch
Posted by HH56 On 2015/8/25 10:58:13
I can provide the photos of how it is supposed to actuate but don't have a resolution for what is not happening at the moment -- other than it is probably an issue with linkage. When I went to take the photos I realized I would have the same problem.
If you don't have EC then you only have a couple of places to check or adjust. With EC there are three or four that could be misadjusted.
Don't remember if your car has the Electromatic but if it does and is known to be stock original then I think it is adjustment. I know my EC was off the car and in the trunk along with a couple of partial units so my issue is probably mismatched linkage. If yours came from another car it could have that issue too. There are various lengths of one rod for the different engines as well as different lengths for cars with EC only and for those with EC and OD. Not sure of the arrangement on non EC cars but with EC that same rod also has a spring mechanism in the end to allow the accelerator to move past the point the throttle is wide open so it can activate the OD kickdown switch. Make sure the spring portion of the rod is functional and the movable portion of rod has not seized.
The EC accelerator switch also needs to have the arm in the proper position with the lever in front moving outward and up. If it has accidentally been reversed so the lever is pointing toward the firewall the engine will still start and drive but the lever hitting the firewall prevents the accelerator from moving far enough to hit the kickdown sw.
The first two photos show the accelerator arm moving toward switch and actually moving the plunger. The third photo is the main rod. There is a compression spring in the housing and the movable portion of rod compresses it approx 1/2 to 3/4 inch to let the acc arm push against the kickdown sw plunger.
If anyone has a stock EC with the 356 engine I would sure appreciate knowing the length of the main rod between the EC mechanism and the accelerator bracket on the firewall.
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If you don't have EC then you only have a couple of places to check or adjust. With EC there are three or four that could be misadjusted.
Don't remember if your car has the Electromatic but if it does and is known to be stock original then I think it is adjustment. I know my EC was off the car and in the trunk along with a couple of partial units so my issue is probably mismatched linkage. If yours came from another car it could have that issue too. There are various lengths of one rod for the different engines as well as different lengths for cars with EC only and for those with EC and OD. Not sure of the arrangement on non EC cars but with EC that same rod also has a spring mechanism in the end to allow the accelerator to move past the point the throttle is wide open so it can activate the OD kickdown switch. Make sure the spring portion of the rod is functional and the movable portion of rod has not seized.
The EC accelerator switch also needs to have the arm in the proper position with the lever in front moving outward and up. If it has accidentally been reversed so the lever is pointing toward the firewall the engine will still start and drive but the lever hitting the firewall prevents the accelerator from moving far enough to hit the kickdown sw.
The first two photos show the accelerator arm moving toward switch and actually moving the plunger. The third photo is the main rod. There is a compression spring in the housing and the movable portion of rod compresses it approx 1/2 to 3/4 inch to let the acc arm push against the kickdown sw plunger.
If anyone has a stock EC with the 356 engine I would sure appreciate knowing the length of the main rod between the EC mechanism and the accelerator bracket on the firewall.
Attach file:
(86.69 KB)
(100.07 KB)
(30.26 KB)
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