Re: Brake Wire Issue
Posted by HH56 On 2019/6/17 18:52:11
That is the reverse light switch and would be correct for cars without the R9 OD or cars without OD at all. It mounts to a bracket at the base of the steering column and the plunger is pushed in by the lower lever only when reverse is selected. Were you able to trace the power wire and see where it is fed from?
It could be a bad brake switch keeping the light on or there could be pressure building up in the brake system from expansion if there is a clogged bleed port in the master or not enough freeplay to allow the piston to clear the bleed port when the piston is in the home position.
If you remove the brass block from the master you will need to bleed the brakes whereas typically just changing the switch does not need that done -- as long as no air enters the line when you remove the switch. If you can't access the switch and do not want to remove the block an option on the brake light -- as long as the switch is not leaking -- is to leave it alone and just add a universal mechanical switch that is actuated by the pedal arm. Run the wires to the new switch. Some who have converted to silicone fluid use the mechanical switches because silicone does not seem to like some hydraulic switches and shortens their life. It is a few dollars more expensive than just getting another hydraulic switch.
Here is one universal mechanical switch but there are other styles that may be easier to mount or adjust to work with the pedal arm. Amazon has a few as does Summit and other stores.
Attach file:
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It could be a bad brake switch keeping the light on or there could be pressure building up in the brake system from expansion if there is a clogged bleed port in the master or not enough freeplay to allow the piston to clear the bleed port when the piston is in the home position.
If you remove the brass block from the master you will need to bleed the brakes whereas typically just changing the switch does not need that done -- as long as no air enters the line when you remove the switch. If you can't access the switch and do not want to remove the block an option on the brake light -- as long as the switch is not leaking -- is to leave it alone and just add a universal mechanical switch that is actuated by the pedal arm. Run the wires to the new switch. Some who have converted to silicone fluid use the mechanical switches because silicone does not seem to like some hydraulic switches and shortens their life. It is a few dollars more expensive than just getting another hydraulic switch.
Here is one universal mechanical switch but there are other styles that may be easier to mount or adjust to work with the pedal arm. Amazon has a few as does Summit and other stores.
Attach file:
(116.56 KB)
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