Re: Help Oil Pan

Posted by David Grubbs On 2011/6/16 20:39:19

Fred and Big Kev are correct in all details. I had the same issues when I removed the pan on my 51 200. If Murphy is alive and well in your garage like mine, the crank will be in exactly the wrong postion to allow the pan to drop. My spare pan had a number of small pin holes in it, just like Fred mentioned. As long as you clean the pan with carb cleaner or something similar, you can solder up the holes. A propane torch sometimes works better than Mapp gas, as the Mapp gas can get too hot.

Be sure to tag the extra long bolts that go into the clutch housing. They have specific holes to go into. And don't get crazy with the torque wrench. I like to use a short handle 3/8 socket set, so I don't over tighten the oil pan bolts. Also, put a light coat of oil on the bottom of the engine, and ATV only on the pan. This way, when you need to remove the pan again, you don't toast your gasket. Or have to spend a half hour scraping the old gasket scraps off the block.

If you do pull the engine, life is much easier if you remove the hood (after you mark the hood with an awl so that you can put in back in the same postion - good tape also works, but not a Sharpie) and remove the radiator. I cut out the cross brace on the radiator support and rewelded it back in after I put the engine back in. Much easier.