Re: Windshield Sealant around Stainless Molding

Posted by Fish'n Jim On 2014/8/2 21:01:22

all else fails: service manual calls to use "body sealer" for the windshield trim install/waterproof. I'd talk to a glass shop for recommends. Commercial product is probably better than OTS consumer items. In my opinion, a trim sealer, not glass or rubber gasket sealant, is needed here to adhere the stainless and fill the gap between the steel.
Early sealers that I'm aware of were either linseed/clay (dumdum) based, filled/solvented rubber, or tar based(not recommended here).
3M weatherstrip adhesive is not UV stable nor filled. Has high solvency so won't fill gaps and needs to "dry" before contact. Won't/slow cure under the trim piece if liquid.
There are adhesive grades of "silicone" - unaffected by heat/UV. The urethane adhesives/sealents are used to direct adhere glass today. I'm guessing, in the correct grade/adhesion & fill, that'll be the best choice here.
Acrylic or acrylic silicone sealers will last, stick to glass, and can be painted. Paint won't stick to the regular (messy) silicone so be careful if painting is planned. Regular silicone releases acetic acid on curing so has corrosion potential in sealed areas if moisture gets in. (I used to make the catalyst for that) I wouldn't recommend for this. Although, I did use some clear sealant on the CAD vent windows recently - for short term sealing until I restore later.
ps: FYI. I've been thinking in customization of raising the (rear) glass to a flush mount(modern method) and eliminating the Packard trim/gasket method of attachment. Would be even easier on the front flat glass. (move the channel/body work) The back window is slightly curved and detented from the body & holds water. I'm not sure yet if I can get "wider" curved glass made or need plastic.