Quote:
Ross wrote:
I only turn drums on the lathe as a last resort if they are heavily scored. It is the mass of the drum that absorbs the heat energy of braking until it can be dissapated to the air so you don't want any light thin drums.
The other important item is adjustment: if they are adjusted too loose, and especially if the brake springs are reversed they will grab horribly. The lighter weight (red) spring must be to the front shoe, and the yellow to the rear. Then, when installing new shoes it pays a big dividend to do a major and minor adjustment.
Somewhere I posted a simplified procedure for major adjustment that works quite well and quickly--perhaps some intrepid soul can find it.
Ross,
I have that "simplified procedure" sheet from you. It's definitely going to be useful when checking the adjustment. I might be able to find the original you posted or e-mailed to me
Thanks, too, for the heads up on the brake springs-- I'll make a note of that:
red, lightweight spring on front, yellow, heavier spring on rear. They could well have been on reversed before the brake job, and the mechanic put them on the same way-- it's doing the same thing as before!
Also, the front drums are going to have to be gone over carefully and cleaned well, especially the left front that's grabbing.
And, check both hoses as Don noted, and make sure both sides are getting equal fluid pressure.
I don't think there have been any grease leaking problems, but will check for those if shoes are contaminated, per Fish'n Jim.
I'm not doing anything with the springs right now, but will have the A arm bushings checked when the brakes are looked at. Thanks for posting the pics of the spacers, HA52.
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