Re: '53 Clipper headlight problem
Posted by HH56 On 2014/7/20 15:07:25
Interesting you had a 20 amp breaker. Owners manual says it should be a 30. Anyway, one possible cause eliminated so on to the next.
Correct me if wrong but believe your Clipper only has one taillight bulb on each side. If so, the taillight sockets need to be inserted in the housing holes for the bulbs to have a ground. If yours is out and still glowing dimly it is getting ground by going back out thru the brake/turnsignal filament part of bulb and finding ground somewhere else -- probably two heavier filaments in series so would be dim. You can use a jumper wire and touch ground to the socket and see if it gets brighter.
The tail lights are fed off the terminal labeled T on the headlight switch. That same terminal also has a short jumper over to the ceramic portion of headlight switch so provides the feed for the dash lights thru the rheostat. To eliminate some of the possibilities, I think I would pull the wires off the switch taillight connection and try again. If the breaker trips, problem is either switch itself or dimmer switch or wire to headlights. If the breaker doesn't trip, put the short jumper for dash lights back on and try again. If that is good then the taillight circuit is all that is left.
I don't remember if the loom on your car goes overhead under the headliner on the drivers side to the trunk area of if it goes down the floor -- either clamped to the tunnel or else clamped a few inches away from the door jambs. You should be able to look under the dash and see a small taped bunch of about 6 wires -- roughly 1/2" in diameter heading toward the back. If it goes up, usually that route is safe so any problems would be in the trunk area. If it is under the carpet then possibly wear from the feet has damaged a portion of the loom.
If memory serves, once in the trunk it goes to the Left taillight area first. A few wires exit for that socket and loom continues another couple of feet where another 2 wires exit -- license light and fuel sender -- and then continues to the right taillight. The license light wire is spliced in the loom to the taillight wire. Make sure the rubber grommet where wire exits the trough is in good condition and the wire insulation hasn't been cut. That has happened to others.
Here is photo of the headlight switch showing the connections. The wires use Douglas connectors which just pull out but be gentle and don't force any if they don't want to cooperate.
As an afterthought -- if the breaker isn't tripping right away it doesn't sound like a direct short but rather a high resistance to ground. Look for any damaged wiring where the insulation looks soft, melted or deformed and also feel for anything hot.
Attach file:
(35.72 KB)
Correct me if wrong but believe your Clipper only has one taillight bulb on each side. If so, the taillight sockets need to be inserted in the housing holes for the bulbs to have a ground. If yours is out and still glowing dimly it is getting ground by going back out thru the brake/turnsignal filament part of bulb and finding ground somewhere else -- probably two heavier filaments in series so would be dim. You can use a jumper wire and touch ground to the socket and see if it gets brighter.
The tail lights are fed off the terminal labeled T on the headlight switch. That same terminal also has a short jumper over to the ceramic portion of headlight switch so provides the feed for the dash lights thru the rheostat. To eliminate some of the possibilities, I think I would pull the wires off the switch taillight connection and try again. If the breaker trips, problem is either switch itself or dimmer switch or wire to headlights. If the breaker doesn't trip, put the short jumper for dash lights back on and try again. If that is good then the taillight circuit is all that is left.
I don't remember if the loom on your car goes overhead under the headliner on the drivers side to the trunk area of if it goes down the floor -- either clamped to the tunnel or else clamped a few inches away from the door jambs. You should be able to look under the dash and see a small taped bunch of about 6 wires -- roughly 1/2" in diameter heading toward the back. If it goes up, usually that route is safe so any problems would be in the trunk area. If it is under the carpet then possibly wear from the feet has damaged a portion of the loom.
If memory serves, once in the trunk it goes to the Left taillight area first. A few wires exit for that socket and loom continues another couple of feet where another 2 wires exit -- license light and fuel sender -- and then continues to the right taillight. The license light wire is spliced in the loom to the taillight wire. Make sure the rubber grommet where wire exits the trough is in good condition and the wire insulation hasn't been cut. That has happened to others.
Here is photo of the headlight switch showing the connections. The wires use Douglas connectors which just pull out but be gentle and don't force any if they don't want to cooperate.
As an afterthought -- if the breaker isn't tripping right away it doesn't sound like a direct short but rather a high resistance to ground. Look for any damaged wiring where the insulation looks soft, melted or deformed and also feel for anything hot.
Attach file:
(35.72 KB)
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