Re: Runaway Engine
Posted by 55PackardGuy On 2014/11/6 22:23:23
Good for you! Yes, absolutely the little things that only require figgerin' rather than a big fix are important. If you notice any "slop" in the accelerator, that is, having to press it a little ways before you get any throttle response, check out Ross's tip about putting a shim between the cross shaft and the firewall. I believe this fix solved my throttle response problem.
HH56 mentioned this earlier and here is the quote from Ross:
Quote:
Here is my beautious solution, out of focus, but you get the idea. The piece of rubber is just a "found object" and the hole in it serves no purpose. It was glued to the firewall with RTV when the picture was taken-- didn't work. Duct tape is working for the time being.
Notice the kink in the piece of wiring harness, and the mark on it... that's what was serving as a "stop" for the throttle shaft before. Look where the shaft is now. Quite a difference! The shaft should basically go straight across the block and form a right angle with the longitudinal shaft that goes to the carb. The connection between the two shafts can also be stressed by the out-of-alignment condition, so check that closely, too.
Attach file:
(96.49 KB)
HH56 mentioned this earlier and here is the quote from Ross:
Quote:
Ross wrote:
Stiff and or sticky accelerator in the 51-54 cars is almost always caused by the bracket on the firewall just above the gas pedal mechanism. Originally it was rubber bushed at its lower end and held the cross shaft a good oh, two inches away from the firewall. Over the 60 years the pressure of the return spring has caused it let the cross shaft fall almost back against the firewall which screws up the geometry and also makes the return spring ineffective.
The easiest and quite effective fix for this is to just shove some old shock absorber bushing or other hunk of rubber between the vertical support and the firewall so that the cross shaft moves well away from the firewall. This will restore the geometry and make for a much smoother gas pedal action. Repair time: approx 30 seconds.
Here is my beautious solution, out of focus, but you get the idea. The piece of rubber is just a "found object" and the hole in it serves no purpose. It was glued to the firewall with RTV when the picture was taken-- didn't work. Duct tape is working for the time being.
Notice the kink in the piece of wiring harness, and the mark on it... that's what was serving as a "stop" for the throttle shaft before. Look where the shaft is now. Quite a difference! The shaft should basically go straight across the block and form a right angle with the longitudinal shaft that goes to the carb. The connection between the two shafts can also be stressed by the out-of-alignment condition, so check that closely, too.
Attach file:
(96.49 KB)
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